Avalon Log Homes

Idaho Homes

2012-01-23T11:54:00.000-08:00

Avalon Custom Homes, division of Avalon Enterprises, builds conventional homes in the Treasure Valley in Idaho. For some of our Idaho Homes built in the Boise, Nampa, & Caldwell, Idaho area you can view custom home photos at http://www.box.net/shared/sb4ro5v44x

For floor plans of these homes, please go to our site and see the Traditional Custom Plans at the bottom of our floor plans link at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-cabin-floor-plans

Avalon Log Homes Winter 2011 Newsletter

2012-01-21T10:12:00.000-08:00

Avalon Log Homes Winter 2011 Newsletter

Lower Mortgage Rates for 2012

2012-01-04T13:32:00.000-08:00

Mortgage interest rates dropped again last week from 3.99% to 3.94% on a 30-year mortgage. The rate on a fifteen year mortgage also decreased from 3.27% to 3.21%, the lowest in history. The economy is slowly rebounding with an increase in employment and mortgage applications have increased over the past few months. Does this signal an economic turn-around for 2012?

While the loss of jobs and problems with-in the lending industry have slowed homeownership over the last couple of years, the major financial players are forecasting cautious optimism for the New Year. “While the headwinds remain strong going into 2012, there are indications the economy and the housing market are gaining ground, albeit slowly,” said Frank Nothaft, Freddie Mac’s chief economist.”

In addition to low interest rates and a rise in the sale of existing homes, permits for single family housing construction have increased over the last several months, guaranteeing a positive influence on the economy at least until the summer of 2012.

Ready to start your New Year off in the home of your dreams? Contact Avalon Log Homes today!

Buying a Log Home is Essential to the American Dream

2012-01-04T13:28:00.000-08:00

This week, an interesting set of surveys was published by Yahoo Real Estate, and they show a changing picture of Americans’ perception of homes and what constitutes separates a good house from a great house. The overarching theme? More and more, homeowners are coming to value ‘green’ characteristics in a home over plenty of other factors.

Just how much is that preference changing? Among all the choices for features that those surveyed looked for in a home, energy efficiency and being a environmentally friendly home topped all other options. Half of all those who participated listed these sorts of features and characteristics as being what they most looked for in a home. On top of that, more than a quarter of the people surveyed said finding a greener home was the primary motivation for trying to find a new place to live.

While more Americans are becoming concerned with environmental impact related to building a home, the primary focus still lands on finding a home that’s energy efficient. It’s plain to see why that’s so sought after, though, with millions of homeowners trying to find ways to save money on monthly bills. Often, there are also plenty of tax credits available as well, and that’s definitely enticing to new home builders.

Log Home Foundation Design

2011-07-02T14:40:00.000-07:00

Before you go off and buy a log home kit, you need to know a few basics. The first decision that you will be faced with is the foundation of course. Should you build on piers, on a solid foundation, on stilts or should

you include a basement. Honestly I cannot make these decisions for you, but the lot that you are building on will give you your first hint. If you have a lot that has a decent slope to it and it is perfect for a basement, you might want to consider adding one. The why of this is that a basement is going to be the cheapest square footage that you can get and will add more resale value than almost any other choice you are going to make. (besides the kitchen and glamor bath) Typically a basement will cost you no more than twenty to thirty dollars per square foot, depending of course on the market that you live in. If you want a solid foundation and the lot is suited to a basement, the cost will not be much more than the solid foundation alone.
Then there is the pier or stilt method, this works well and cuts costs considerable, the downside to this is that the sub-floor is going to require extra insulation to keep your feet

toasty in the winter. Another drawback to these types of foundation is stability, when you leave an open air-space below your house, you are giving mother nature a toe hold on your house. Log homes are heavy, they need all the stability that they can get. In a storm or tornado (if these things bother you and are plentiful in your area) your house is more likely to shift if the wind can get under it. The biggest advantage of these foundations is cost. They are certainly cheaper and allow you to get to the meat of your project allot quicker. If cost is a deciding factor, you can always enclose the foundation at a later date. Another drawback to this type of foundation is the water and electrical lines. Of course you don't have to worry about your electrical lines freezing, but your water lines are five times more likely to freeze with an open foundation. There is heat tape that you can apply, but these products do die and they don't tell you when they die. If you decide to go this route be sure to check your anti-freeze systems every year before winter and monthly during winter. You will thank me later.

Another newer type of foundation on the market is the pre-cast panel system. These are great because they do not require a footing and can be installed in a day (in most cases). After your panels are set, the builder comes in and installs a termite shield and then the sill plate. Almost all pre-cast systems require that the sill plate lap at least four foot on to the next panel. This is what locks them together and keeps them from shifting. This is IMPORTANT, if your builder neglects to do this properly, your foundation can shift when back-filled and the warranty will be voided. This is not easy to fix because the way the system works you cannot back-fill until the sub-floor is on. You will not discover the problem until it becomes a very expensive process. Keep an eye on your builder during this process. I once knew a very capable builder who was installing the sill plate when the homeowner discovered that his men hadn't followed the instructions. The builder was more than willing to fix the problem, but the homeowner ran him off the project. His theory was that if the builder was going to screw up this soon in the project, what other directions would he miss. Who can blame the guy, certainly not me. After your sub-floor is installed, you can pour the basement floor and lock in the walls permanently, then and only then can you backfill.
Now for the newest type of foundation to hit the building world. (not really that new, but new to most consumers, its been around for at least ten years) The hollow foam block. These blocks are made of styrofoam (much

like a cheap beer cooler) which interlock and are stacked very quickly. During the stacking process a series of reinforcement bars are installed along with plastic spreader pieces. (the plastic pieces prevent the blocks from spreading when they are filled with concrete.) While stacking the blocks, all of the openings are formed out, as a result these form boards become permanent bucks for your windows and doors. It is best to use pressure treated material for the bucks. Once everything is in place and a few kickers (which keep everything from shifting) are installed, it is time to pour the concrete. This is best done with a pump truck or a conveyor truck as trying to pour this much concrete with wheelbarrows and buckets is just stupid. The concrete could set up in the bottom of the forms and cause you to have cold joints. ( the reason I said anything about the how of this is because homeowners are notorious for trying to cheap out when it is important not to) Yes, your foundation will stay together even with cold joints and no one will ever see them, but it makes for a weak wall and is not recommended.

Whatever type of foundation that you choose, all of them will need a termite shield on top of them before the sill plate is installed. A termite shield is just a fancy name for a continuous aluminum sheet (aluminum flashing comes in rolls from ten inches to two feet wide) at least two inches wider than the top of the foundation. Flush this material with the outside of the wall and let it hang over on the inside. The theory behind this is that termites cannot walk over the slick aluminum preventing them from building a tunnel up the inside of the wall up to the sub-floor. Do not neglect this process, some builders swear that because of the chemicals used to protect the house that it is no longer needed. This may be true, but what if you forget to call your pest control guy one year. Wouldn't you rather have a cheap back-up instead of having no protection? This is not a costly procedure and can save your home in the long run. Do not let your contractor or anyone else talk you out of this step.

When building the foundation you will need some sort of method to attach the sill plate. (sill plates are almost always pressure treated two by eights) In the case of the pre-cast concrete panels, they leave holes every sixteen inches to two feet for you to bolt the sill plate on. Use every hole and the hardware provided as it will be rated for this application, this is extremely important when using this type of system and it could void your warranty if you don't. In some areas, such as coastal plains, your local codes will dictate how you must attach your sill plate. I built a log home on St. Johns Island outside of Charleston S.C. a few years back and their codes are as strict as anywhere in the nation. According to their code, from footing to ridge beam everything had to be attached using a variety of clips, fasteners and straps. Coming out of the footing and through the block foundation was a continuous strap that flattened out on top of the block and then was folded back over each side of the sill plate. This is extreme, but that house will never move.
The most common fastener for sill plates is the eight inch anchor bolt with a three-eighths inch threaded nut and washer. These bolts are shaped like an L and are usually put in the wet concrete about every two feet or

as required by your local codes. (keep in mind when you are installing your bolts that wherever one board ends you want two bolts so that the end of one isn't just laying there, this is especially true at the corners of the wall where you may need as many as three bolts, lay out where your boards are going on top of the wall to better plan for bolt placement) When you install your termite shield, just lay it out on top of the bolts and working from right to left, hit the flashing lightly with a wooden headed hammer on top of the anchor bolt, this will knock a hole in the flashing where you need it then you can drive the metal down flat on each side of the bolt. Be careful not to damage the threads on your anchor bolts, if you want to play it safe, put a nut on the bolt before you hit the metal and after you have a hole in the flashing lift it up and take the bolt off, this will straighten any threads that you may have damaged. Once you have the flashing on, you can bolt down the sill plate. Work from right to left and measure each bolt from the end of where you are starting. Make a straight line across the board with a speed square and then measure how far the bolt is from the outside edge. (when installing the bolts, it is best to stagger them alternating in and out while making sure the leg on the bottom of the bolt is covered well) Pre-drill each hole using a bit that is no more than one-eighth inch larger than the bolts diameter. Once the board is in place (you may have to work the board back and forth while hitting it with a two pound hammer) place the washers and finally the bolts. Tighten until the wood starts to compress, making sure not to over-tighten as you can pull the anchor bolt right out of the concrete. (allow the concrete around the bolts to cure at least thirty-six hours before applying stress)

If you have chosen a block foundation that you do not plan on pouring solid with concrete, you can stuff the cells where your anchor bolts are going with the left over mortar bags. If you will pre-plan and layout where your floor joists are going on top of the wall, you can place your anchor bolts in such a way that they do not interfere with the joists. You do not want to have to notch your floor joists before you even get started good.( if you neglected to pre-plan your bolt placement, you can always counter-sink the nuts and cut the top of the bolt off with a sawz-all) Most log homes have a double rim joist ( I like to call it a boxing band, that is the board that borders the outside of your sub-floor framing and your joists will be attached to it) This means that your anchor bolts must be at least three and a half inches in from the outside of your wall. ( I realize that this does not allow for much staggering of the bolts, but whatever stagger you can get will be better than having them in a straight line) Technically all of the pressure on a sill plate is down pressure which means there is no lateral force on the plate. This means that bolting the plate down only fastens the structure to the foundation and typically the weight of the house would hold it in place. However, during a freak wind event, there can be strong lateral forces on these bolts. These bolts also help keep the boxing band (rim joist) still while the builder is working on the sub-floor. So, even though they are not totally necessary, you wont catch me building a house without them. (I hope that makes some kind of sense to someone)
Another consideration when planning the foundation is it's final appearance. If you are planning on using stone or river rock for the exterior finish of your basement then the foundation must be left back the

thickness of your material to look right. Typically you will find that most log homes have stone covering the block foundation. Try to stay away from anything thicker than two inches as this is almost the limit of set-back that you can get due to how the first log course much be attached to the sub-floor. (this is why there is a double boxing band or rim joist) You have an unlimited selection of materials to choose from when covering a foundation. One of the cheapest methods (versus painting the block) is to stucco the exterior wall, (natural stucco is just two or three layers of colored portland cement, synthetic stucco is an expensive material that must be purchased be a licensed professional) the advantage of stucco is that no set-back is required making pre-planning a little easier. The biggest drawback to stucco is that if your builder doesn't use a good bonding agent or it is applied at too cold of a temperature, the material can flake off leaving your wall looking like a dalmatian.

Then there is brick, honestly I don't think brick belongs anywhere near a log home, (that is a personal opinion) brick offers the same challenges as stone as you will need to set the foundation wall back to allow for the brick. There is also a product which is face brick which is only about five-eighths of an inch thick and goes on much quicker than standard brick. With this material you will also need to set the wall back to allow for the difference in thickness. Whatever the choice even if it is fake brick (stucco applied to one-half inch thick and then mortar lines scratched out to resemble brick) the challenges are certainly the same and must be accounted for before you begin construction. If your contractor has half a clue about what he is doing, this will be as easy as pie for him. A novice will screw it up and have your brick, stone etc. sticking out well beyond the face of your logs. This will look like (insert your choice of expletives here) and the cost to fix it will be astronomical. So, do it right from the start. The bad thing about making a mistake in the foundation is that it compounds itself throughout the building process. A quarter of an inch out at the bottom can turn into three inches at the top.
Decks, porches, stairs or any other exterior attachment that will eventually be attached to your home at the sub-floor must be planned for now. Wherever you plan on putting a deck etc. plan on using a pressure treated

board for your outside boxing band (rim joist.) Even though you will install a vapor barrier and a piece of aluminum flashing to protect your sub-floor, use a pressure treated rim joist at all of these areas. When you eventually build your deck etc. make sure to bolt it to the rim joist with lag bolts at least every two feet and preferably every sixteen inches (through bolting is even more efficient but requires more work), making sure that the bolts (these bolts should be at least three-eighths in diameter but no more than five-eighths) will penetrate through all three layers of the rim joist. (in most areas of the country this is code due to the many deaths and injuries from decks failing during parties or other unexpected load events) You especially want to use these methods if the deck or stair is not covered by a roof (technically a deck with a roof is a porch) even though you will probably slope the deck away from the house, water tends to get in places where we don't want it. More often than not this area of the boxing band will rot out if not planned for in advance making the attachment unstable and unsafe for you and your family. You can prevent this before you even start if you know what to look for and how to solve the problem. I have heard a many old man say, "I will be dead and gone before this roof leaks or that wood rots" This is not fair to whoever inherits your property after you even if you plan on selling the property or are building it for spec. Of course the decision is ultimately yours, but wouldn't you rather have more selling points than possible faults in your project? (who knows, the buyer may have read this article to) I know you will make the right decision for your situation.

Visit us at http://www.avalonloghomes.com or email us at logs@cableone.net

Avalon Log Homes Summer 2011 Newsletter

2011-06-12T11:55:00.000-07:00

Check out our Avalon Log Homes Summer 2011 Newsletter

How to Achieve an English Cottage-Style House

2011-05-13T15:33:00.000-07:00

How to Achieve an English Cottage-Style House

The quintessential English cottage is a style based on comfort, homeliness and tradition. It’s no wonder that this style endures; it is a timeless style which can be easy to achieve, and yet bring to a home an enviable but relaxed chic. There are no strict rules for this style, it is one which is hard to define and yet is instantly recognizable.

Floral prints on fabrics are a must. This carried through the living room area can bring the theme through in drapes and cushions adorning your Palliser if you’re lucky enough to own some. Bedspreads should be floral too.
The traditional country cottage has a wooden floor, and this effect can be achieved with modern laminates at the fraction of the cost of a real wood floor. Cover with ornamental rugs to soften the coldness of the wood.

Frame pictures with gold ornamental frames, paintings with scenes such as the English countryside give a feel of the British culture. Ornamental pieces such as plates on display in the kitchen or dining area give a real feel of a welcoming home. Flowers on display, artificial, dried or fresh, always make a house feel more homely and adding these is an essential part of the look.

The furniture used depends on the room. English cottages tend not to have dining rooms, and tables are located in the kitchen area, the hub of the English country home. Bedrooms lean towards pine or white painted furniture, which may or may not be in a distressed style. The bedroom furniture tends to be a full wooden bed, a chest of drawers and a full dressing table and wardrobes. These match in style but not necessarily as a set.

Kitchens tend to be full wood affairs, with a light coloured varnish or painted in a light pastel colour. A light green is effective. Dining tables are usually located in the kitchen, but it is not essential that they match so in a separate dining area could still be effective. Gingham fabric seat covers give that country feel.

Old chesterfield couches and non-matching high backed chairs are very much a part of the sitting area. Scattered with the floral cushions this is a very relaxing, unpretentious fashion which will never date and can be updated regularly by accumulating new items. It is a hotchpotch of furniture, fabric and decorative pieces which you can add too throughout a lifetime and bring your own personality to.

The Merced Log Home by Avalon Log Homes

2011-03-07T11:08:00.000-08:00

See this Gravitas Series plan at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/the-merced

The Merced is an adorable 1784 square foot 3 bedroom 2 bath home with a main level Owner's Suite. The open loft with a full shed dormer on the upper level would make for a great office space or play area. The four sided wrap around porch and screened porch almost double the living space for outdoor dining and entertaining and relaxing.
From the soaring ceilings, elevated windows, and refined design of the commanding fireplace in the great room overlooking the very dramatic back view scene. The large gourmet kitchen has abundant cabinets and countertop space with eating bar. The master bath offers walk-in shower, as well as a spacious walk-in closet and dressing area. There is masterful sense of styling and sophistication clearly evident in The Merced design which you will appreciate more with each passing year.

The Roanoke Log Home @ Avalon Log Homes

2011-02-17T07:51:00.000-08:00

The Gravitas, Inc. Series Roanoke is a 2559 SF, 3 bedroom, 3 bath home with a detached 2 car garage and easy option for a daylight basement on the right lot.

Click to see this plan: The Roanoke Fly-Around Video

The Roanoke is a 2559 SF, 3 bedroom, 3 bath home with a detached 2 car garage and easy option for a daylight basement on the right lot. The open layout allows the kitchen to easily flow into the adjacent dining room and vaulted gathering room. The owners suite opens to a deck that wraps around the house. Heading up the log stairs you'll find another bedroom and full bathroom, along with an open loft. There’s also plenty of storage space in the accessible attic space directly off the loft.

The Quinn Log Home @ Avalon Log Homes

2011-02-17T07:37:00.000-08:00

This Gravitas, Inc. Series log home plan features 1305 sf 2 bd, 2 bath, 1.5 stories with two car garage.

Click for this plan: The Quinn: 3D Fly-Around Video

The Quinn is a simple two bedroom home with attached carport and view balcony off the Upper Bedroom. This home is just over 1300 SF with extensive Outdoor Living areas. This home is perfect for a mountain retreat or a Not So Big approach to full time living.

Covered porches, dormers and gables add to this log homes charming appeal. The great room with corner fireplace and lots of windows is designed for entertaining & to enjoy the views. This log home design is sure to be the showpiece of the neighborhood, with its captivating blend of traditional and contemporary features.

MAKE YOUR LOG HOME DREAM A REALITY

2011-02-16T09:01:00.000-08:00

This article will serve as a guide on how to achieve that dream of owning a log home. Before you start searching for a log home company, there are several things to you should think about: what features you desire in a home, the log species and profile that you like, and how much of the building you are willing to do as well as a price range you are willing to spend on your log home (built to completion with or without land included.

The first step in making your dream home become reality is to choose a log home company. Easier said than done because there are hundreds of log home companies competing for your business. We researched about fifty different log home companies before we made our decision and yes it was time consuming but you need to find the company that best fits your needs. To narrow down the list of companies to choose from, decide on the log species (i.e. White Pine), log profile (i.e. round), size of logs, type of logs (kiln-dried, dead standing, air dried, green), and the building system that you like the best. Another way to narrow down the list is to tour log home models built by different log home companies and, if possible, tour the log home mills themselves. Now you need to submit a sketched floor plan of your dream home to the companies that you have chosen and obtain a log home package cost estimate that includes a shipping estimate. When comparing price quotes from these companies make sure you are comparing "apples to apples", meaning each companies log home package is slightly different than the other. Choose the package that best suits your needs and price.

The second step is to decide how much "sweat equity" you are willing to put into your home. The more that you are able to do yourself means the more you will be able to save in labor costs. How much does it cost to complete a log home depends on the labor rates in your area. Most log home companies can quote a turnkey price (completely built home, ready to move in) as well as just the log home package price. Research different labor rates in your area as well as building materials that are not included in your package and compare these costs to your turnkey price given to you by the log home company. Ask your log home company if they can provide a list of area contractors. Being your own general contractor also saves money by subtracting about 10%-20% off the cost of building your log home, however you have the headaches that go along with that job. If you decide to be your own general contractor, you will need to develop a cost estimating worksheet with a breakdown of all the costs associated with building your home.

Is the price of your dream home still within your budgeted range? If the answer is yes, then you can move on to obtaining financing. If the answer is no, then there are some areas where costs can be reduced provided that you are flexible. You may opt for more "sweat equity", choose a smaller diameter log, reduce the size of your basement, or settle for less square footage to bring your price down. It is typical when building your first home that adjustments need to be made in order to fit your original budget.

Finally, your cost estimating worksheet is done and you have your blueprints, now you are ready for financing. There are quite a few lenders out there that specialize in log home financing which is slightly different than traditional stick built financing. Again use the resources of the log home company you have chosen, they should be able to provide a list of specialized lenders as well as help you with the financial paperwork. Do your homework before approaching a lender and the process will run smoother. Most lenders offer a construction loan for up to one year and then required you to re-qualify for the mortgage loan after your home is completed. Another option is a "One Time Close" loan which combines the construction and permanent financing into one easy loan. One Time Close loans are nice because you only pay closing costs once and usually only qualify once for the loan. These loans are usually given at a slightly higher interest rate during the construction loan period and can be "rolled down" at the time that the permanent loan starts. When financing your loan, be prepared to have a down payment of 5%-15% of your loan value and in most cases you may use the value of your land as your down payment provided you own it free and clear. Once financing is approved, you can begin building your dream log home.

Now you can let the seed grow into a beautiful log home that someone else will admire. Keep in mind that the process of building your own log home is time consuming and Murphy's Law does apply, but the end result is rewarding.
See this and other log home articles by Steve Ryan at loghome.com

Check out our Log Homes, new log floor plans, client photo galleries, new articles, and videos at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/

The Best Property and Location for Your Log Home

2011-02-04T10:29:00.000-08:00

The Best Property and Location for Your Log Home

When I first started constructing log homes, the last thing on my mind was if the lot was suited for it or not. Being the builder versus being the owner, you would think that it didn't matter what I thought of the property. In most cases this is true, until I started constructing my second log home. The owner, being fairly wealthy, had chosen a lot on top of a steep hill with a rutted gravel path to the top. He chose the lot because you could see a small sliver of the lake a mile away. Not exactly a million dollar view, but one that suited the owner. I believe that if he knew what type of logistical problem he had presented us with, he would have purchased a different lot.

The first time I tried to go to the top of this hill in my truck, I had to stop, back down and get a running shot to make it. Now this wasn't like a fifty foot hill to the top of a flat site, no it was a little over a quarter mile of switchbacks with some areas being as steep as forty-five degrees. Once I made it to the top I thought, well I got up here, no problem. At the end of that same week one of my employees jack knifed the company truck with the tool trailer behind it on the same hill. We ended up bringing in a backhoe to get them both up the hill and spent about $250.00 repairing the hitch on both the truck and the trailer. The following week I ordered concrete for the footings that we had just excavated. When I ordered the concrete I made sure to tell the dispatcher that they needed to bring their six wheel drive trucks to make it up the hill. Needless to say the first truck to try the hill not only got stuck halfway up the hill but he also spilled about one third of the load on the steepest part of the slope.

Knowing that I had very little time before the concrete started to set up in the truck, I sent the second truck back to the plant. (It still cost us for both full loads) Then I called a local excavating contractor to bring in a D-8 Caterpillar dozer to ease the truck back off the hill. Once the dozer and operator arrived at the site (about an hour after the truck driver panicked) we attempted to get the concrete truck to the top of the hill and salvage what concrete was left. Once again fate had different plans, it turned out that the loaded truck was just to heavy for the dozer. We eventually dumped the load of concrete over the side of the hill and eased the truck and driver back down to the bottom (the driver refused to ever come back to the site). After making a call to my boss and after he made a call to the owner, it was decided that we needed to rebuild the road to allow for a better access to the site. Considering that before we even started construction I had three loads of crush and run spread on the drive, it turned out to be useless. After talking to the owner of the dozer, I made arrangements to have the road bed cut down, then we put on a thin layer of two inch crushed stone and a three inch layer of crush and run. (crush and run are the tailings left over from the stone crushing process, they are usually cheaper and once it is compacted it is almost as strong as concrete) Two weeks and ten thousand dollars later we had a decent road to access the job site, the only problem with this is that once we drove construction vehicles over it for six months, it wasn't much better than when we started.

The other problem with this site was storage area. At the top of this hill, the site was barely big enough for the house and a couple of cars. We were only able to store limited amounts of material at the building site. The remainder of the material was stored a quarter of a mile below on the right of way. Now this may not sound like that big of a deal, until you realize that we had to keep a lull on-site during construction. This added another eight hundred dollars a week to the building cost. None of these costs were factored in by the owner when he purchase the land and his log home kit. When we bid the house, we knew that we would have material storage problems, but we did not consider rebuilding the road. The moral of this story is that if the owner had done just a little homework, he would have been able to pre-plan for these costs. Some people do not care what it costs to get what they want, but most of us live on restricted budgets and cannot absorb a ten thousand dollar road project. The remainder of this article will address some of the other problems that you can encounter when dealing with building a new home. Those problems tend to become exaggerated when you are building a log home.
In the first four paragraphs we addressed the issue of access to the site and storage. When you order a log home the sales representative should tell you that on the day of delivery, you will need to have a lull on
site. (a lull is a forklift with a boom that extends out and adjusts level and right to left) The one thing that I hate about this is when I am building a home for a farmer and he decides that he can unload the materials with his tractor. THIS DOES NOT WORK. I have seen more than one load of logs damaged beyond use because a homeowner was trying to save a couple hundred bucks. Imagine if you will that you tried to unload your logs with a tractor, you have dropped a bundle of logs and now they have to be replaced or used with all the gouges in them. To replace that one bundle could cost anywhere from $1800.00 up to $7000.00. Now I bet you are wishing that you would have just bit the bullet and rented a lull. The "gotcha" on this deal is this, in the fine print on your contract with your supplier you will find a little paragraph stating that you have one half hour to unload each truck and that for every half hour over this time, you will have to pay the driver an additional fifty dollars. Now, this may not sound like much, but let me tell you how this little scheme works for the drivers.

Your delivery is scheduled to arrive a five o-clock in the afternoon. The first truck driver, who is not familiar with the area, arrives about six thirty or just after dark. Upon arrival, you realize that you cannot get the truck to the site because of roads, weak culverts or narrow drive. Or you cannot get the logs to the site because the bundles are to wide to go down the drive without cutting down that beautiful oak that your wife loves so much. So, here you are trying to solve these problems and the clock is ticking. The driver is loving it because he can get some rest and you still have to pay him. I have seen drivers pretend to be stuck at the end of the drive in order to make a couple extra dollars while he sleeps. This happens more than you would like to believe. The lesson here is, one, make sure that your order is scheduled to arrive early in the morning. Two, that you have made arrangements to unload the truck in a timely manner. This may mean that you have to unload the truck on the side of the road and take the material to the site after they leave. The other option is to make sure that the driver cannot only get to the site, but that you have at least twelve feet of clearance along the access that the material will be ferried down. This is one of the most common mistakes made by owners. The odd part is that only two log home companies (that I know of) actually prepare the homeowner for this situation. Most will tell you that you need the lull, some will tell you that you need at least twelve feet of clearance, (you may need more clearance if your logs are longer and or bundled in a strange manner, check with your sales representative long before delivery so that you can prepare) but few if any will tell you that the delivery costs can go up on site. Another little tip in the storage area is that if you can, have the logs arrive after you have the sub-floor down. That way you can set what logs you are going to need first right on the deck and save yourself or the builder a ton of labor.
Another common mistake made by log home buyers is to build in a neighborhood that consists of framed houses. If you build a log home on a lot and all of the houses around you are framed with vinyl siding, your home will never reach its value potential. The value of your home will be based on those around you and not on a comparable house. For example, lets say that you purchase a kit for thirty thousand dollars. Then you bring in a log home builder who charges you another fifteen thousand just to dry it in. Then you bring in a roofer, an electrician, a plumber and a finish crew. When all is said and done, you have spent a hundred and fifty thousand to build a house that will never be worth more than the two cracker boxes on either side of you. Now, if you are in love with your neighborhood and don't mind the loss of equity, then be my guest, but don't expect it to sell quickly on the market. When people think of log homes, they think of woods, streams, creeks, rivers and lakes. They don't think about vinyl siding, brick and privacy fencing. This is honestly a personal preference, but one that you should at least consider before purchasing a piece of land for your new home. If you have ever driven around looking at log homes, you will notice that they are either built off by themselves or in a neighborhood with dozens of other log homes. Research recent log home sales in your area to get a better idea of how this phenomenon works.

For our next subject let's go back to the top of that hill we were talking about earlier. The owner of that home was so proud that he not only had a view, paved roads in the neighborhood, neighbors no closer than two acres apart but he was proud that city water was available. Before anyone can start a project, they need two things to the site, one that they need electricity and two they need water. Now you can get a generator and you can haul water, but this costs money and it is much easier and convenient to have those services on site. The plumber that I had on that project started by installing a spigot at the meter (which was a quarter of a mile down the hill) and then proceeded to run a solid one inch polyethylene pipe from the meter to the house. Once he had it installed along with a temporary spigot at the house, he proceeded to go to the meter and turn the water on. He then made the trip back to the top of the hill only to discover that no water was coming out of the line.
My plumber then stood back and scratched his head for a couple of minutes while I explained to him that if he only had thirty five psi at the meter, that would only push the water so far up the hill and that we would have to install a booster pump in the line at some point. Now this plumber (being a stubborn yankee, now I am not prejudice because I am married to a stubborn yankee) decided to walk down the hill about fifty feet, cut the line and install the booster pump. Well people, there is an equation for this situation, but he chose to play it by ear. After moving the pump three times and increasing its size twice, he finally got a decent thirty five pounds of pressure at the house. The only problem with this is that if the city water pressure were to drop by five pounds, not only would he not have water at his house, but odds are it would burn up the pump before he knew what was happening. It could also be a problem if the city shut the water down without giving him notice. Now we installed an automatic shut off valve and a decent sized pressurized storage tank in the home to prevent this sort of problem, but your plumber might not want to go to all that trouble, especially if he gave you a hard dollar cost on the project. This is just another unforeseen expense that the owner had to bear because he had no idea what he was getting into, not to mention the ongoing expense of maintaining such a complicated system.

For our discussion of electrical we will once again go back to our home on the hill. Almost everyone knows that before you start construction on a project, one of the first things you do is set a temporary power pole. Sounds easy enough, doesn't it? Well on this particular project, we invited the electrical engineer from our local electric department out to the site to tell us what we would need to get our temporary electrical in place. He took it easy on us at first and told us to upgrade our four by four post to a six by six. Then he told us that we would need to stake it off firmly and have the weather-head at least fourteen feet off the ground. Then he hit us hard. "We are going to need a swath one hundred feet wide cut down that hill so that we have fifty feet either side of our power line." That is a direct quote. Now, I knew that we would have to cut a few trees to get the poles set and the wire strung, but this was going to be a hundred foot wide path a quarter of a mile long on the side of a steep hill with a ninety degree turn at the bottom. Not only did we have to cut all of these trees but we had to move them out of the way of the bucket trucks. (which they had to winch down the side of the hill using a D-8 dozer) I took one other man and started at the bottom, two and a half weeks and about a thousand trees later, we had our path for our power lines.
Before I started cutting trees, I called my boss who in turn called the owner and explained what the electric company required. He told us to go ahead and do whatever we had to do. However, I don't think that

anything could have prepared him for the site of the side of his hill stripped of all vegetation. The side of that hill looked as if we had dropped napalm on it and tried to burn out charlie. Not to mention the fact that we had to take down trees as large as two foot in diameter. It is hard to imagine how many trees are in a hundred foot path a quarter of a mile long, but if you are curious, go out in the woods with a tape measure and mark out an area one hundred feet by one hundred feet and count the trees. I think you will be surprised. The pile of firewood at the bottom of that hill was enormous, to bad he didn't install a wood burning fireplace. (he went for a gas unit) This is just another example of a cost that the homeowner didn't consider. This wasn't just a monetary loss either, this was a loss of beauty, habitat and it had screened the house from the neighbors. The cost of this one item alone single handedly shattered his illusion of seclusion. The cost of running the poles and wire was only seven hundred and fifty dollars, if he had went for an underground installation the cost would have been closer to ten thousand. Looking back I think he wishes that he would have spent the ten grand rather than have us strip half of his hill bare.

Now for the next consideration, soil conditions and the ability of the soil to perk. With all of the new types of septic systems on the market these days, there are few sites that a person cannot build on. However, if your ground will not perk and you are required to install an exotic waste system the cost can be astronomical. It is best to have this tested before you purchase the land. Even if the owner or dealer or realtor tells you that a particular spot will perk, get it tested. Often rules that apply to septic systems change as environmental conditions change. The perk test that you are quoted may no longer be valid. The area of the ground that actually perks may restrict you from building on the sweet spot where you want your house to sit. What good is a lot if you have to build at the bottom of the hill and cannot see the million dollar view that you paid for? Another consequence of perk tests is it may restrict your home to two bedrooms and one and a half baths when you wanted a four bedroom three bath house. The devil is in the details, isn't it? There are occasions when you can get around these problems by installing an exotic waste system, but be prepared to pay for it. These are not just a hole in the ground with a couple hundred feet of pipe. They can get expensive. Also keep in mind that a typical septic system will require one hundred feet of line for each bedroom and an additional ten feet for each bath. These lines are usually ten feet apart, sometimes further depending on soil conditions. You need to know all of this so that you have plenty of room once you begin construction. No matter how nice you are, no one is going to let you sneak part of your septic line on to their property. Keep in mind that these are general rules and your local laws will apply.
I am sure that you are tired of me boring you with details so I am going to end this article with one last note on property. Location, location, location. I know that the saying is older than the dirt you are planning on building on. Let me tell you of a man and his dream home. Several years ago we get a cost plus contract on a log home near Dale Hollow Lake for a retired businessman. We spent the better part of two years and three quarters of a million dollars building this couple their dream home. This house had everything (it was a Y-2K home complete with generators, underground propane tanks, back up tanks) this house even had a sixteen foot fish tank with a live coral reef from Japan in it. The dogs had a bathtub in this house. It was equipped with bunkers, duel water systems, if this guy thought of it, we put it in. My point is, this guy spent two years of his life building his dream home and once it was finished and we had all went home. His wife decided that she was lonely and made him sell it so that they could move back to Ohio. In order to sell his dream home he ended up taking a hundred thousand dollar loss, because your dream isn't my dream. It didn't help that it was a forty-five minute drive to a grocery store and an hour and a half to decent shopping. Careful not to remove yourself and your better half too far from what you both are accustomed to, unless you both know what you are getting into. If you want my advice, rent a home as close as possible to where you will eventually build and see if you are happy in that area before you go burning through your nest egg.

If you have been keeping up with my articles on log homes, you know that this is the fourth. Please keep coming back as there are many more topics to be discussed at length. The more you know, the better prepared you can be when you are ready. Nothing is as frustrating to a builder than having a customer who not only doesn't know what they want, but has no clue what it takes to give them the product that they expect. Just like all things, a knowledgeable consumer is a happy consumer. See more of these LRGoodwin articles, Log Homes, Log Cabins, Luxury Log Homes, new log floor plans, client photo galleries, new articles, and videos at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/

Check out our Avalon Log Homes Winter/Spring 2011 Newsletter

2011-02-04T10:26:00.000-08:00

Check out our Avalon Log Homes Winter/Spring 2011 Newsletter

2010-12-17T09:38:00.000-08:00

Foundation Design For Log Homes

The building department in your area will have a lot to say about the type and design of your foundation and what they will allow.Before you go off and buy a log home kit, you need to know a few basics.

The first decision that you will be faced with is the foundation of course. Should you build on piers, on a solid foundation, on stilts or should you include a basement. The lot that you are building on will give you your first hint. If you have a lot that has a decent slope to it and it is perfect for a basement, you might want to consider adding one. The why of this is that a basement is going to be the cheapest square footage that you can get and will add more resale value than almost any other choice you are going to make. Typically a basement will cost you no more than thirty to forty dollars per square foot, depending of course on the market that you live in. If you want a solid foundation and the lot is suited to a basement, the cost will not be much more than the solid foundation alone. Then there is the pier or stilt method, this works well and cuts costs considerable, the downside to this is that the sub-floor is going to require extra insulation. Another drawback to these types of foundations is stability, when you leave an open air-space below your house, you are giving mother nature a toe hold on your house. Log homes are heavy and they need all the stability that they can get. In a storm or tornado, your house is more likely to shift if the wind can get under it. The biggest advantage of these foundations is cost. They are certainly cheaper and allow you to get to the meat of your project allot quicker. If cost is a deciding factor, you can always enclose the foundation at a later date. Another drawback to this type of foundation is the water and electrical lines. Of course you don't have to worry about your electrical lines freezing, but your water lines are five times more likely to freeze with an open foundation. There is heat tape that you can apply, but these products do die and they don't tell you when they die. If you decide to go this route be sure to check your anti-freeze systems every year before winter and monthly during winter.

Another newer type of foundation on the market is the pre-cast panel system. These are great because they do not require a footing and can be installed in a few days (in most cases). After your panels are set, the builder comes in and installs a termite shield and then the sill plate. Almost all pre-cast systems require that the sill plate lap at least four foot on to the next panel. This is what locks them together and keeps them from shifting. This is IMPORTANT, if your builder neglects to do this properly, your foundation can shift when back-filled and the warranty will be voided. This is not easy to fix because the way the system works you cannot back-fill until the sub-floor is on. You will not discover the problem until it becomes a very expensive process. After your sub-floor is installed, you can pour the basement floor and lock in the walls permanently, then and only then can you backfill.

Now for the newest type of foundation to hit the building world, The hollow foam block. These blocks are made of Styrofoam which interlock and are stacked very quickly. During the stacking process a series of reinforcement bars are installed along with plastic spreader pieces. (The plastic pieces prevent the blocks from spreading when they are filled with concrete.) While stacking the blocks, all of the openings are formed out, as a result these form boards become permanent bucks for your windows and doors. It is best to use pressure treated material for the bucks. Once everything is in place and a few kickers (which keep everything from shifting) are installed, it is time to pour the concrete. This is best done with a pump truck or a conveyor truck as trying to pour this much concrete with wheelbarrows and buckets is too time consuming. The concrete could set up in the bottom of the forms and cause you to have cold joints.

Whatever type of foundation that you choose, all of them will need a termite shield on top of them before the sill plate is installed. A termite shield is a continuous aluminum sheet (aluminum flashing comes in rolls from ten inches to two feet wide) at least two inches wider than the top of the foundation. Flush this material with the outside of the wall and let it hang over on the inside. The theory behind this is that termites cannot walk over the slick aluminum preventing them from building a tunnel up the inside of the wall up to the sub-floor. Do not neglect this process. This is not a costly procedure and can save your home in the long run. Do not let your contractor or anyone else talk you out of this step.

When building the foundation you will need some sort of method to attach the sill plate. (sill plates are almost always pressure treated two by sixes) In the case of the pre-cast concrete panels, they leave holes for you to bolt the sill plate on. Use every hole and the hardware provided as it will be rated for this application, this is extremely important when using this type of system and it could void your warranty if you don't. In some areas, such as coastal plains, your local codes will dictate how you must attach your sill plate.

The most common fastener for sill plates is the anchor bolt with a threaded nut and washer. These bolts are shaped like an L and are usually put in the wet concrete about every four feet or as required by your local codes. (keep in mind when you are installing your bolts that wherever one board ends you want two bolts so that the end of one isn't just laying there, this is especially true at the corners of the wall where you may need as many as three bolts, lay out where your boards are going on top of the wall to better plan for bolt placement) When you install your termite shield, just lay it out on top of the bolts and working from right to left, hit the flashing lightly with a wooden headed hammer on top of the anchor bolt, this will knock a hole in the flashing where you need it then you can drive the metal down flat on each side of the bolt. Be careful not to damage the threads on your anchor bolts, if you want to play it safe, put a nut on the bolt before you hit the metal and after you have a hole in the flashing lift it up and take the bolt off, this will straighten any threads that you may have damaged. Once you have the flashing on, you can bolt down the sill plate. Work from right to left and measure each bolt from the end of where you are starting. Make a straight line across the board with a speed square and then measure how far the bolt is from the outside edge. (when installing the bolts, it is best to stagger them alternating in and out while making sure the leg on the bottom of the bolt is covered well) Pre-drill each hole using a bit that is no more than one-eighth inch larger than the bolts diameter. Once the board is in place (you may have to work the board back and forth while hitting it with a two pound hammer) place the washers and finally the bolts. Tighten until the wood starts to compress, making sure not to over-tighten as you can pull the anchor bolt right out of the concrete. (allow the concrete around the bolts to cure at least thirty-six hours before applying stress)

If you have chosen a block foundation that you do not plan on pouring solid with concrete, you can stuff the cells where your anchor bolts are going with the left over mortar bags. If you will pre-plan and layout where your floor joists are going on top of the wall, you can place your anchor bolts in such a way that they do not interfere with the joists. You do not want to have to notch your floor joists before you even get started good.( if you neglected to pre-plan your bolt placement, you can always counter-sink the nuts and cut the top of the bolt off with a sawz-all) Most log homes have a double rim joist ( I like to call it a boxing band, that is the board that borders the outside of your sub-floor framing and your joists will be attached to it) This means that your anchor bolts must be at least three and a half inches in from the outside of your wall. ( I realize that this does not allow for much staggering of the bolts, but whatever stagger you can get will be better than having them in a straight line) Technically all of the pressure on a sill plate is down pressure which means there is no lateral force on the plate. This means that bolting the plate down only fastens the structure to the foundation and typically the weight of the house would hold it in place. However, during a freak wind event, there can be strong lateral forces on these bolts. These bolts also help keep the boxing band (rim joist) still while the builder is working on the sub-floor.

Another consideration when planning the foundation is the final appearance. If you are planning on using stone or river rock for the exterior finish of your basement then the foundation must be left back the thickness of your material to look right. Typically you will find that most log homes have stone covering the block foundation. Try to stay away from anything thicker than two inches as this is almost the limit of set-back that you can get due to how the first log course much be attached to the sub-floor. (that is why there is a double boxing band or rim joist) You have an unlimited selection of materials to choose from when covering a foundation. One of the cheapest methods (versus painting the block) is to stucco the exterior wall, (natural stucco is just two or three layers of colored Portland cement, synthetic stucco is an expensive material that must be purchased be a licensed professional) the advantage of stucco is that no set-back is required making pre-planning a little easier. The biggest drawback to stucco is that if your builder doesn't use a good bonding agent or it is applied at too cold of a temperature, the material can flake off.

Then there is brick, honestly I don't think brick belongs anywhere near a log home, (that is a personal opinion) brick offers the same challenges as stone as you will need to set the foundation wall back to allow for the brick. There is also a product which is face brick which is only about five-eighths of an inch thick and goes on much quicker than standard brick. With this material you will also need to set the wall back to allow for the difference in thickness. Whatever the choice even if it is fake brick (stucco applied to one-half inch thick and then mortar lines scratched out to resemble brick) the challenges are certainly the same and must be accounted for before you begin construction.

Decks, porches, stairs or any other exterior attachment that will eventually be attached to your home at the sub-floor must be planned for now. Wherever you plan on putting a deck etc. plan on using a pressure treated board for your outside boxing band (rim joist.) Even though you will install a vapor barrier and a piece of aluminum flashing to protect your sub-floor, use a pressure treated rim joist at all of these areas. When you eventually build your deck etc. make sure to bolt it to the rim joist with lag bolts at least every two feet and preferably every sixteen inches (through bolting is even more efficient but requires more work), making sure that the bolts will penetrate through all three layers of the rim joist. (in most areas of the country this is code due to the many deaths and injuries from decks failing during parties or other unexpected load events) You especially want to use these methods if the deck or stair is not covered by a roof (technically a deck with a roof is a porch) even though you will probably slope the deck away from the house, water tends to get in places where we don't want it. More often than not this area of the boxing band will rot out if not planned for in advance making the attachment unstable and unsafe for you and your family. It is also a good idea to start your decking about an inch or so away from the edge of the house rim. This will allow water to fall and not lay up against your rim joist. You can prevent this before you even start if you know what to look for and how to solve the problems.
For more information see LR Goddwins foundation articles.

Check out our Avalon Log Homes Fall 2010 Newsletter

2010-12-06T07:03:00.000-08:00

Check out our Avalon Log Homes Fall 2010 Newsletter

Cullowhee, North Carolina Log Home Show Information - Johnson's Log Home and Timber Frame Shows

2010-10-21T11:06:00.000-07:00

Cullowhee, North Carolina Log Home Show Information - Johnson's Log Home and Timber Frame Shows: "- Sent using Google Toolbar"

Avalon Log Homes – The Edgewood Log Home Plan

2010-09-13T00:48:00.001-07:00

Log Home plan features a split 3 Bdrm, 2.5 Bath single level with garage. If you like wrap around covered porches this one has it! This is one of Avalon Log Home's most popular plans. The great room, huge kitchen, & nook is designed to for family enjoyment. Formal living room & Den are up front in the house. See this floorplan at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/edgewood

Log Home Prevent Finish Failure Design Tips

2010-07-10T10:43:00.000-07:00

Log Home Prevent Finish Failure Design Tips

There are a number of simple design and construction steps that you can incorporate into your log home to keep your wood finish in tip top shape.

In general, water is the enemy and to prevent finish failure and eventual rot you have to control it. Here are our design tips:

1. Always install gutters on your log home. The single biggest cause of finish failure and rot is water that runs off your roof, lands on a deck, patio or the ground and bounces back up onto your wood. Install gutters and you will control the water flow and divert it away from your exposed wood. To make sure that your gutters do the job all the time, spend the extra dollars for gutter protection products such as Gutter Helmut or Gutter Guard that keep your gutters clean and free flowing year round.

2. Maximize roof overhangs and install all around covered porches to the full extend that your budget will allow. In tandem with gutters, this keeps water off your logs and preserves the finish.

3. Never let your logs get any closer than two feet from decks, patios and ground areas that are exposed. If water bounces back up onto your foundation there is not much problem. When water bounces back onto the wood, this is where finish failure and rot begins. The simple answer is to make your foundation a little higher off the ground. Finish your foundation and floor system with stucco and/or cultured stone. In areas with high snow accumulations, extend stone and stucco up to the point of typical maximum snow depth. Logs are not designed to be buried in snow for weeks or months at a time.

By using these tips you will prolong the life of your log home finish and virtually eliminate the opportunity for log rot to begin.

Avalon Log Homes expert team provides the finest quality log products and design & planning services to make your dream log home become a reality all over the USA & Canada. Visit us at http://www.avalonloghomes.com or email us at logs@cableone.net

Avalon summer 2010 newsletter

2010-06-06T15:31:00.000-07:00

Check out our Avalon Log Homes summer 2010 newsletter: "- Sent using Google Toolbar"

Exterior Log Home Pictures by Avalon Log Homes - Clarence - Picasa Web Albums

2010-06-06T07:40:00.000-07:00

Exterior Log Home Pictures by Avalon Log Homes - Clarence - Picasa Web Albums: "- Sent using Google Toolbar"

Avalon Log Homes Summer 2010 Newsletter

2010-06-05T09:32:00.001-07:00

Check out this SlideShare Presentation:

Avalon summer 2010 newsletter

View more documents from Avalon Log Homes.

Idaho Wine Month Encourages Local Consumers to Drink Local

2010-05-26T21:27:00.000-07:00

Idaho Wine Month Encourages Local Consumers to Drink Local
From Article by Moya Shatz
Executive Director
Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission

In order to help promote the Idaho wine industry, June was declared as Idaho Wine Month by Governor Butch Otter in May 2009 to encourage consumers to buy Idaho products by purchasing wine grown in Idaho. Local restaurants, retail stores, and wine shops will be offering specials for those who purchase wines produced and bottled right here in Idaho during June to celebrate Idaho Wine Month. For a complete list of retailers offering specials, please see below and visit your local wine merchant.

As most of you know, Idaho is emerging into a major wine-producing state. With the long, hot days available to growers and our states rich volcanic soil, grapes are being grown and made into award winning wines. Idaho Wine Month brings people together for all of the tastes and treasures that Idaho has to offer. With the promotion of Idaho wine during Idaho Wine month, we hope many consumers will be tempted to purchase wine at a higher rate and continue to in the future.

To coincide with Idaho Wine Month, the Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission is hosting Savor Idaho, Idaho’s Premier Wine & Food Event for the second time. Focusing on Idaho wine and food, Savor Idaho will be held at the Idaho Botanical Garden on June 13th from 2-6pm, featuring many local wineries, restaurants, and exhibitors.

Below is a Woodriver Cellars specials that they will be offering to support the Idaho wine industry during Idaho wine month.

Woodriver Cellars-
• $5.00 off the purchase of one bottle of wine.

• Free 3 oz pour of Woodriver Cellars’ “Featured Wine” with each dinner purchased on Friday and Saturday evenings from 6pm to 9pm throughout the month of June.

• Enjoy 20% off all cases for the month of June.

• New Wine Club members who sign up in the month of June receive a FREE bottle of their Sweet White or Sweet Pink with initial sign up.

• Thursday, June 10, 2010 attend “Perfect Pair” for their “Cuban” theme. They will have food, cigars and port on the back patio. Wine and cigar education is included in the evening, as well as Barrel Room Tours and tastings. Port by Woodriver Cellars and cigars by Sturman’s Smoke Shop.

• Friday and Saturday Tasting Room hours are from 11am to 10pm with dinner from 6pm to 9pm and live music from 7pm to 9pm.

Sunday-Thursday 11am-7pm; Friday & Saturday 11am-10pm
3705 North Hwy 16, Eagle
Phone: 208.286.WINE (9463)
www.woodrivercellars.com

Saving Money When Designing And Building Your Dream Log Home

2010-05-17T08:52:00.000-07:00

Saving Money When Designing And Building Your Dream Log Home

Consider log home design options:
You have a wide variety of log home design options to consider.
At the top is a handcrafted log home or a timber frame log home. From there you can go with a milled log home and even a conventionally framed home with log siding and log accents for those on tighter budgets.

The savings start with the design of your log home. - The best way to begin your design is to find a floor plan that is close to what you are looking for, mark it with your changes and send it to one or more log home companies of your choice. Most log home companies will gladly advise you on your custom log home design, where to save money, and then quote a kit price. Don't be reluctant to begin a design with your unique requirements. Rarely (and I do mean rarely) does a company ship the same log home kit twice. If you are having difficulty finding a plan that fits your life style, go to a search engine (e.g., www.google.com , www.yahoo.com, etc.) and search on “log home plans.” You will find many log home companies listed; most of which have extensive libraries of standard floor plans. Another option would be to search on “house plans” where you will find a mind boggling number of companies that sell conventional house plans, including a few also offering log home plans. Remember, most log home companies will gladly convert a conventional house plan to a log home plan. Remember, the more corners in the foundation, the more complex the roof system, the more windows called for, the more exposed rafters called for (as opposed to locally manufactured roof trusses), the more the home will cost.

Do the log home labor yourself. - This is the opportunity for the greatest saving. Of course, most of us work full time at other jobs and do not have the time for such an undertaking. However, if your heart is set on researching this option, visit any of the online book sellers, search on “log homes” and order one or more books that focus on the construction of log homes. But perhaps the wisest choice would be to contact a nearby log builder and negotiate an hourly rate for consultation or have them give you a proposal to be a construction manager for you for a fixed fee or percentage on the costs. This method allows any savings to be passed back to you. It is best to spend time and money up front to get the job done right, rather than deal with problems later that never seem to go away.

Act as your own builder. - This is your option for the second greatest saving. Many log home buyers decide to be their own general contractor. However, be aware, this choice is not without its headaches. That is why you save all those bucks! Local building officials can be difficult to work with; subcontractors will be late or never show up; deliveries will be late or the wrong materials will be delivered; the weather is unpredictable; subcontractors and suppliers may take advantage of your inexperience. And the list goes on. Regardless of the pitfalls and stress, acting as your own general contractor will still save you about 15% - and that is big bucks. If you elect this option, again visit online book sellers, search on “log homes” and purchase one or more books that deal with log home construction. Contracting with an experienced builder to serve as an advisor or construction manager is highly recommended.

Shop for financing the same as you shop for building materials, appliances, etc. – If there is no local lender experienced in the financing of log homes, go to the search engines and search on “log home loans” or “log home mortgages.” Lenders will not charge you when you apply for a loan. File applications with two or more lenders and then select the best deal. Sometimes it’s good to look at a national log home lender with log home experience.

Select your building lot with caution. - How long will the driveway be? If you must install a septic system, a health permit is a prerequisite, and then, will it be necessary to pump to the drain field? Will it be necessary to cross a creek? How much grading will be involved? Is tree and stump removal going to be a problem? Will there be a rock problem when the foundation is excavated? In other words, a "cheap" lot can quickly become an expensive lot. If you are having difficulty finding a lot, contact a local real estate agent. Give the realtor your lot selection criteria (price range, location, size, etc.) and tell him/her to search the Multiple Listing Service data base. There is no charge for this service. The true price of the lot should include all those things necessary to have it ready to build on including driveway, sewer, water, & power systems on-site.

Select your log home builders with caution. - When talking to builders ask for references and visit log homes he/she has built and talk to the home owners.

Select carpet as your floor covering rather than hardwood floors. - Yes, hardwood floors are a "natural" in log homes. But we are looking for opportunities to save money. Perhaps you can compromise. Put hardwood in the great room and carpet elsewhere. Remember, at a later date (after you have received a job promotion or two) you can always replace carpet with hardwood.

Use Cultural Stone for wall accents and fireplaces attached to plywood and studs in lieu of a full masonry or stone. - Don't tell your friends. It's impossible to see the low cost plywood and studs thru the cultural stone. Real Stone also weighs a lot and can require additional structural support. This decision can save you a lot of money

Consider an efficient wood stove over an inefficient and more expensive fireplace. - Select black flue pipe instead of a masonry chimney. The black flue pipe looks great in a log home.

Build your log home on a crawl space rather than a basement. - Again, we are looking for opportunities to save money. Sure, a basement is cheap floor space and many buyers opt for the extra storage, shop and/or recreation room space; never-the-less, eliminating the basement will save $15,000 - $30,000 in a typical home.

Have your custom fixed glass manufactured locally. - Yes, your window supplier will want to order your fixed glass from the factory. While he/she is getting a quote from the factory, visit a local glass shop. You may be pleasantly surprised. Locally manufactured fixed glass windows are available with double glass and/or tinted glass.

Select your windows and doors with care. - This is a major opportunity for savings. Compare the quality and cost of several manufacturers before making a decision. If you expect to have a large number of windows and exterior doors, ask the suppliers if you qualify for a truck load discount.

Select your plumbing fixtures, electrical fixtures and kitchen cabinets with care. - These are also major opportunities for controlling your costs.

Start shopping early. - Whether you hire a builder to do a "turn key" job or act as the general contractor, you can save money on individual items in the house - for example, appliances, floor coverings, windows, doors, plumbing fixtures, kitchen cabinets, counter tops, etc., etc. The earlier you start shopping the more likely you are to find items on sale. Just let your "turn key" builder know in advance that you plan to shop for sale items and BE AWARE, if you slow down or inconvenience the builder, you will quickly lose what you saved and probably much more.

Best wishes as you embark on an exciting journey.

Check out our Log Homes, Log Cabins, Luxury Log Homes, new log floor plans, client photo galleries, new articles, and videos at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/

Thermal Mass Benefits of Log Homes

2010-05-09T06:44:00.000-07:00

Thermal Mass Benefits of Log Homes

The nation's Model Energy Code finally recognizes the energy-conservation benefits of thermal mass. After 13 years, the LHC's claim a log wall's thermal mass makes it as energy efficient as a well-insulated frame wall has been acknowledged. The situation could be cause for adopting an "I told you so" attitude, but that won't happen. "The Log Homes Council (LHC) doesn't feel smug, it just feels vindicated," says Barbara Martin, LHC's executive director.
The situation in question is the fact the nation's Model Energy Code finally recognizes the energy-conservation benefits of thermal mass. This is a victory for the LHC. After 13 years, its claim a log wall's thermal mass makes it as energy efficient as a well-insulated frame wall has been acknowledged. Achieving this acceptance has been a major goal for the LHC, a part of the Building Systems Councils of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB).
While the claim is true, it wasn't officially acknowledged, in part because thermal mass is difficult to quantify. Log home owners had the home heating bills to prove it was true, but Department of Energy and code officials needed more than empirical evidence. So, over the past 13 years, the LHC has gathered scientific statistics from independent research projects to substantiate its assertion.
Now that it has succeeded, Dave Carter, LHC energy committee chairman, says "This makes life easier for log home producers. We no longer have to fight energy codes based on R-values. It also helps log home owners. They don't have to invest in additional building materials to meet codes that do not improve the livability of their homes."
R-value measures a material's resistance to the transfer of heat from one side to another. Logs have a relatively low resistance to heat transfer. In fact, they actually absorb and store heat in their cellular structure. This put logs at a serious disadvantage in the cold winter states. It forced producers to overbuild their homes, especially their floor, window and roof systems, to meet total R-value requirements. "This drove up construction costs without any measurable benefit to our buyers," says Carter.
R-values have been at the heart of the debate all along. When the energy crisis struck in the 1970's, the state and federal governments quickly developed new energy standards for residential construction. To assure compliance, officials needed a way to measure the energy performance of all residential building materials. Since the situation was a crisis, and the R-value methodology existed, it became the standard.
Thermal mass is a material's capacity to absorb, store and slowly release heat over time. Logs do this well. The LHC set out to prove two things. First, logs have thermal mass because of their cellular structure, bulk and thickness. Second, this thermal m ass provides significant energy-saving benefits because it releases heat back into the house when temperatures drop.
Early studies proved thermal mass properties significantly reduce heating and cooling loads in moderate climates. The National Institute of Standards conducted the most important of these studies for HUD in 1981-82. However, energy experts continued to question the value of thermal mass during the winter months in northern climates. They doubted its benefit when heat is needed constantly and thermostat settings are opposite outdoor temperature.
Two recent studies, both conducted in cold climate states, answer this question to the log home industry's benefit. In 1990, an independent testing agency, Advanced Certified Thermography, conducted a study for the Energy Division of the Minnesota Department of Public Service. It focused on heat loss through air leakage, assumed to be a problem with log walls because of their many joints. The study found the industry has substantially reduced air infiltration rates in the past 15 years. It credited this reduction to improve joint construction and the use of expanded foam sealants and gaskets on all joints and corner intersections. Leakage in the 23 test homes occurred where it in the same places it does in frame houses: at the peak of the cathedral ceilings, around window and door frames and along the tops of walls. The study concludes air leakage in well-built, modern log homes is not due to their log walls.
NAHB's Research Center conducted the second study for the LHC in 1991. It showed the thermal mass of log walls does significantly reduce energy use for heating in cold climates. It based its conclusion on a comparison of the actual energy use of eight log homes to the actual energy uses of eight well-insulated foam houses during one winter. The number of houses were evenly divided between upstate New York and Montana. The study also compared the homes actual energy use to their predicted energy consumption. The results led to the conclusion that log homes were as energy efficient as the frame houses.
"What is significant here is the log walls' average R-values was 44 percent lower than the frame walls' average R-value." says Carter. "Clearly, we must conclude the thermal mass performance of log walls is an advantage to log home owners."
The LHC works to improve industry standards, increase awareness of log construction as a method for building attractive homes and overcome obstacles to log home ownership.

Check out our Log Homes, Log Cabins, Luxury Log Homes, new log floor plans, client photo galleries, new articles, and videos at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/

Avalon Log Homes Spring 2010 Newsletter

2010-04-23T22:11:00.001-07:00

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Avalon Log Homes Spring 2010 Newsletter

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Avalon Log Homes – The Rivanna Luxury Log Home Plan

2010-03-30T13:51:00.001-07:00

The Rivanna Gravitas Series plan is a 5604 SF, 6 bedroom, 4 bath home with a offset 3 car garage set into the mountainside. This plan features an all season porch, complete with a cozy fireplace and two balconies. A private owners suite occupies the top floor, with an open loft looking down over the spacious gathering room and a covered porch.

Check out our Avalon Log Homes – The Rivanna Luxury Log Home Plan at
http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/the-rivanna

Avalon Log Homes – The Escalante Luxury Log Home Plan

2010-03-18T17:42:00.000-07:00

Check out our Avalon Log Homes – The Escalante Luxury Log Home Plan at
http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/the-escalante

Combining spaciousness with elegance, The Escalante Gravitas Series plan is a popular open design masterpiece that speaks of sophisticated living. This plan Features a 4 Bdrm, 4.5 Baths, Three levels & 2 car garage. The dramatic covered entry is framed by glass sidelights. The first floor features a popular open floor plan with a gathering room with lots of glass for great views and a stunning fireplace. The gourmet kitchen features a wonderful layout perfect for large-scale entertainment or intimate family gatherings. The main level large master bedroom suite is situated for extra privacy. The lower level offers 2 bedrooms and a bath. From the sculptured architectural detailing to the soaring drama, The Escalante is for you to appreciate more with each passing year.

Log Home and Timber Frame Home Shows, Johnson's Log Home and Timber Frame Shows

2010-03-05T08:07:00.000-08:00

Log Home and Timber Frame Home Shows, Johnson's Log Home and Timber Frame Shows

Log Home of the Month – The Bear Creek Luxury Log Home

2010-03-01T11:03:00.000-08:00

The Bear Creek Luxury Log Home

Check out our Log Home of the Month – The Bear Creek Luxury Log Home Plan at
http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/the-bear-creek

This is a customized Seneca in our Gravitas Series. This plan features 5627 sf including 5+ bedrooms, 4.5 bath, formal dining room, double 2 car garages, drive-thru, 1.5 stories with larger daylight basement. From the soaring ceilings, elevated windows, formal dining room with walls of windows, and refined design of the commanding fireplace in the great room overlooking the very dramatic back view scene. The Bear Creek exudes a grad style. The unique window theme continues into the family room and adjoining kitchen and dining areas resulting in a log home bathed in warm glow of sunlight. The master suite offers everything you’ve always wanted. You’ll find this home loaded with all the latest design ideas.

Sun Valley Log Lodge by Avalon Log Homes

2010-02-20T08:32:00.000-08:00

Sun Valley Log Lodge by Avalon Log Homes

Springdale Luxury Log Home by Avalon Log Homes

2010-02-20T08:07:00.000-08:00

Springdale Luxury Log Home by Avalon Log Homes

2010-02-20T08:05:00.000-08:00

Log Homes Myths

2010-02-20T08:01:00.001-08:00

Check out this SlideShare Presentation:

Log Homes Myths

View more documents from Avalon Log Homes.

Log Homes Myths

2010-02-20T07:54:00.000-08:00

Log Homes Myths

Learning About Log Homes at Avalon Log Homes

2010-02-20T07:52:00.000-08:00

Learning About Log Homes at Avalon Log Homes

Log Home of the Month – Fall Creek Luxury Log Home

2010-02-04T02:56:00.000-08:00

Log Home of the Month – Fall Creek Luxury Log Home

The Fall Creek Luxury Log Home: Magnificent, Impressive, and Stunning. This Log Home features 4401sf including 3 Bdrm, 3.5 Baths 1.5 stories with garage. From the soaring ceilings, elevated windows, and refined design of the commanding fireplace in the great room overlooking the very dramatic back view scene. The Fall Creek exudes a grad style. Covered porches, dormers, and gabled roof add to this log homes charming appeal. The unique window theme continues into the family room and adjoining kitchen and dining areas resulting in a log home bathed in warm glow of sunlight. The master suite offers everything you have always wanted. You will find this home loaded with all the latest design ideas.

See this Fall Creek floor plan at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/fall-creek

Avalon Custom Log Homes Fan Page on Facebook

2010-01-06T09:07:00.001-08:00

Join our Avalon Custom Log Homes Fan Page on Facebook. Lots of log home information at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Nampa-ID/Avalon-Custom-Log-Homes/151517604893

Log Home of the Month – Martini Luxury Log Home

2009-12-10T10:08:00.000-08:00

Check out our Log Home of the Month – Martini Luxury Log Home

This is 2500 square feet luxury log home is built in Mogollon Ranch, Arizona.
Martini Log Home plan features a 3 Bdrm, 2 Bath, Sunroom, two story. The Martini is a design masterpiece that speaks of sophisticated living. If you like wrap around covered porches this one has it. The dramatic front covered entry sets the theme for good things to come. The unique window theme continues into the family room, sunroom, and adjoining kitchen and dining areas resulting in a log home bathed in warm glow of sunlight. The gourmet kitchen and nook, featuring a wonderful layout is perfect for large-scale entertainment or intimate family gatherings. The large upstairs master bedroom suite is situated for extra privacy. The master suite offers everything you have always wanted. You will find this home loaded with all the latest design ideas. See photos of this home in our photo gallery.

This log home includes log accents & 10 inch log siding. See this Martini floor plan at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/martini-log-home

To view a video of this home go to:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoqToZtDBSA

Avalon Log Homes Plan of the Month - Powers Log Home

2009-11-22T08:07:00.000-08:00

Check out our Log Home of the Month - Powers Log Home Plan at
http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/powers-log-home

To view a video of this home go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqkyg2bZdjY

This Powers Log Home features a great open design. Included is 4 Bdrm, 3 Bath two story with full wrap around porch. The gallery kitchen features lots of cabinets. This plan radiates a warm comfortable feeling through its bright open design. The kitchen, dining & living areas flow together which proves to be functional and elegant. The large master bedroom suite is situated for extra privacy and offers everything you have always wanted. Interesting gables accent the exterior of this great traditional family log home.

2578 square feet total.

Log Home Stains – Which is Best?

2009-11-12T11:50:00.000-08:00

Log Home Stains – Which is Best?

What do you know about log & timber screws?

2009-11-12T11:48:00.000-08:00

What do you know about log & timber screws?

Log Homes & High-Tech Communications

2009-11-12T11:46:00.000-08:00

Log Homes & High-Tech Communications

Weather Considerations not Usually Considered in Log Home Design and Construction

2009-10-31T10:41:00.000-07:00

Weather Considerations not Usually Considered in Log Home Design and Construction

Reblogged from LHOTI
By Kim Elmore, PhD.
Kim Elmore received his B.S., M.S., and PhD. in meteorology from the University of Oklahoma. He has done extensive research at the National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR) in Boulder, CO, and worked at NOAA's National Severe Storms Laboratory. See end of article for a better glimpse of our resident PhD.

Classic Tornado

As a research meteorologist who specializes in severe weather, I thought long and hard about severe weather as we designed our log home. A colleague once put the problems severe weather pose as follows: it’s not the odds, it’s the size of the bet! Most information about how weather affects homes details the problems of making the home weather-tight, insulation properties, heat loads, etc. These items mainly refer to HVAC considerations. But weather is much more than seasonal averages, or even seasonal extremes, such as the 90th percentile of low or high temperatures. My concern here is with severe weather: the stuff that gets your NOAA weather radio beeping, or your local TV meteorologist showing off their radar. Here I’ll discuss mainly wind survival. Note that I’m not a structural engineer: make sure you work with one who understands your concerns.

On 3 May 1999, a complex of tornadic storms traversed Oklahoma and Kansas, killing 49 people and leveling entire neighborhoods. In the Oklahoma City metropolitan area alone, thousands of homes were destroyed. Damage ranged from F3 (roofs and some walls torn off well-constructed houses; trains overturned; most trees in forests uprooted; heavy cars lifted off the ground and thrown) to F5 (strong frame houses leveled off foundations and swept away; automobile-sized missiles fly through the air in excess of 100 meters; trees debarked; incredible phenomena). FEMA commissioned a Building Performance Assessment Report to examine the nature of the damage. Their report is contained online at http://www.fema.gov/library/viewRecord.do?id=1423. At 200 pages, the report is thorough, covering both residential and commercial structures. In this brief write-up, I’ll cover only the highlights of what was learned in making that report and how it might affect your home design.

No log homes were mentioned in the report and I know of none that were in the damage path. However, the historic Tri-Cities tornado of March 18, 1925 did pass over many log homes. Subsequent research showed that these homes typically remained intact, losing only their roofs. All other homes were typically destroyed. Some of these log homes remain intact to this day. Local residents attributed log home survival to their spiked construction and heavy log walls.

What about safe rooms? A safe room is a structure that is built to be independent of the rest of the home. It is your last refuge in the event of a tornado. In most cases, a log wall at least 8” thick is as strong as the wall of a safe room, but the problem of missiles remains: they probably won’t penetrate the walls with any remaining energy, but they will come through the windows and, while not posing a structural issue, they do pose a survival issue. Safe rooms protect the occupants from wind-borne missiles. Without a safe room or storm cellar, you must find someplace in your home where you will be protected well. Yet, your home must also protect you from severe weather short of a strong tornado. This is where proper engineering and careful thought come into play.

In typical frame construction, the walls and roof form an integrated structure. In severe wind storms, the roof is usually separated from the walls, at which point the walls fail and the entire structure collapses. Log homes have self-supporting walls and so will probably remain intact should the roof be separated from the walls. However, there are things that every log home owner should do if they live anyplace where high winds might occur in severe weather (this includes wind storms such as Chinooks and boras). While your home is very unlikely to suffer a tornadic onslaught, it is likely to endure winds of up to 100 mph anywhere that thunderstorms occur. Along the Gulf and southeast coasts, hurricane winds are also a significant threat.

First and foremost: maintain a continuous load path from the roof joists/trusses/rafters all the way to the ground. And make sure that it terminates in something (like a stem wall) that will not be pulled out of the ground. You can accomplish this with hurricane clips, straps, or any number of other methods.

Simply keep in mind that the forces involved will tend to lift the roof, so you must use a method that will not fail under tension.

Nails and screws must not be prone to pull out: these attachment methods are strongest in shear and weakest in tension. One obvious exception to this are the long screws used to build up a log wall in a milled log home: by design, these are quite strong under tensile loads.

Regardless of building codes, the first course of all external log walls should be attached to the stem wall with J-type bolts set in the concrete, though there may be alternative fasteners such as continuous through-bolts. The next course should be attached to the bottom course with screws intended for log applications, and so on. Roof trusses, joists, or rafters must then be attached to the last course of logs such that they will not easily be pulled free. When more than one floor is involved, how the load path is maintained depends on the construction method. In our milled log home, the second floor is attached with large screws and specialized clips to the top course of logs, and all subsequent external framing is attached to this floor using hurricane clips.

Another important consideration is outbuildings: make sure your outbuildings are as wind-resistant as possible. Many structures fail under otherwise survivable winds because of wind-born missiles. Imagine how much damage a few 2x4 studs could do if hurled at 100-150 mph at your house. And in all cases, it’s best to have your home engineered with continuous load paths and wind survivability in mind.

Assuming you have succeeded in building your house with a continuous load path, the next consideration is siting. The most common roof failure mode in and around the Oklahoma City area was overpressure due to garage door collapse. In these cases, the garage door collapsed inward due to strong winds. This created a large opening that was pressurized by the wind. This pressurizes not only the garage but any attached structures and so lifts the roof off of the walls. Large garage doors, such as those used for single-door two-car garages, are particularly vulnerable. In addition to the door itself failing, the rails on which it runs are also subject to failure: these must be reinforced with wind survivability in mind. In our case, we have a detached two-car garage (a failed garage door will result in damage to only the roof of the garage) with two single doors that face north. Single doors have twice the fastening to the structure and are far less likely to buckle.

In most of North America, strong straight-line (non-tornadic) winds will typically have a south-westerly to westerly component. This is because the strongest thunderstorms tend to be associated with south west to west winds aloft and thunderstorms have the ability to bring these winds to the surface. Strong surface winds can occur from other directions (the Santa Ana winds of California are easterly and microburst winds can be from any direction) but the very strongest winds are routinely south westerly and westerly. Hurricanes are the exception: the strongest winds are always in the onshore flow. Along the Gulf coast, these winds will be southerly, but on the East coast they will be easterly.
So, avoid exposing any particularly vulnerable structural components to these winds. Vulnerable components include not only garage doors but also large windows.

A north-facing garage means that any ice accumulation will be slow to melt, because of the low sun angle in winter. A more winter-dominant climate would have to deal with ice and snow buildup on the north side of the garage. Yet, in the southern plains we are nearly assured of seeing 100 mph winds over a 20 yrs period. A slick driveway is far less inconvenient that a destroyed home.

Our home was built in an exposed area, well clear of any trees. However, our previous home (milled yellow pine logs fastened with spikes) was nestled in the trees, on the northeast side of a northwest-southeast ridge. We seldom experienced strong winds there. Trees will indeed lessen the damage wind can do to your home, as long as you are well within the trees. They may fall on your home, but they will also significantly lessen the strength of even tornadic winds and so protect you and your home to some extent.

Keep these ideas in mind as you plan and build your home. If in doubt, contact your local National Weather Service Forecast Office and learn about historical wind damage in your area.

Avalon Luxury Log Homes-Log Home of the Month- Springdale Plan

2009-10-28T19:31:00.000-07:00

Check out our Log Home of the Month- Springdale Plan at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/springdale

To view a video of this home go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lV7P3Oi8Z8

This Springdale Model is one of our most popular log homes. This plan radiates a warm comfortable feeling through its bright open design. The kitchen, dining & living areas flow together which proves to be functional and elegant. This 3 bedroom 2.5 bath 1-1/2 story with optional basement plan offers all the extra special touches. The family room with a huge full glass prow is enhanced by a stunning fireplace. Inside, the well-integrated main living areas are geared for the views to the back patio, which is the perfect complement to the views beyond.

2280 square feet total.

Tags: Avalon, cabins, Homes, Log, Luxury

Borates for Custom Log Cabins

2009-10-03T21:13:00.000-07:00

Borates for Custom Log Homes
By Greg Steckler

Let’s talk for a bit about borate treatments for your log home or cabin. If you’ve never heard of them, you are probably asking, why would I want it? Well, do you hate the thought of termites of all kinds eating at your house? How about Carpenter ants, Old House Borer beetles, powder beetles, and post beetles? Finally, how about Brown Rot, White Rot, mold, mildew and other wood decaying fungi? I didn’t think so. You know, borates can and do kill all the above insects and organisms. Sound a little more interesting now? Let’s get started.

What is borate? Disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, or DOT, (no not THAT DOT, this one
really works!) is a borate salt compound that is formed from a union of boric acid and borax. This is the most common form of borate used in log home treatments. Various name brands of water based borate solutions are available, such as Armor-Guard, Timbor, Penetreat, Board Guard, and others. There are also several glycol based solutions, such as Bora-Care and Shell Guard. Finally, there are oil based and solid forms of the product, sold as rods that can be inserted into logs in your log home and provide long term protection.

How do borates work? Borates are toxic to both insects and fungus species. One way the borate works is that it disrupts the enzyme system of the insect and destroys the
microflora in the stomach of the insect, thus disallowing food digestion. Borates also affect the enzyme system of fungi. Finally, the active ingredient is a contact toxicant to fungus.

How do I apply it? First of all, it’s important to realize that the borate needs to soak as far into the wood as possible. There can be no stain or other finish on the wood when the borate is applied. The best way to prep for borate is to cob blast the wood, making it even more porous. Every borate manufacturer has different methods of application and a special focus on what their product will do. Let’s look at them as groups, and not brand names.
First, you have your glycol based treatments. These are marketed more for termite and
other very long term applications. Check out www.Nisuscorp.com and
www.permachink.com for more info on each of these. Typically, these are mixed with warm or hot water and spray applied to saturation. The glycol is very good at pulling the active ingredients deep into the wood, where only saturation with water will remove them.

Second, there are water based solutions. You’ll buy these as a powder in some size pail. So many scoops to the gallon, and again, you are spray applying these onto the wood surfaces you want to protect. Protection is good near the surface, about a quarter inch or so. A hard rain will wash it off, which is why you need to coat the wood soon after with a stain/sealer.

Third, there are borate rods. Cobra Rods and Impel Rods are the most popular. These
rods are made for high risk areas of your log cabin, such as log ends that get a lot of
splashing water on them, or protrude out past the overhang. A hole is drilled, the rod inserted, and a plug tapped into place. If the log gets wet, the borate will diffuse into the surrounding wood, protecting it from rot.

Finally, taking into account that many borate treatments are applied specifically for the purpose of protection log homes, which will require a sealing stain treatment anyway to lock in the borate, there are a few companies working on a penetrating oil based application of borate, which will allow other ingredients such as base color pigments to be introduced deep into the wood as a conditioning step, after which a positive curing top coat is applied to “lock in” the borate.
While borate solutions are very good for pretreatments before staining the wood on your house, they only help prevent mold and mildew from forming UNDER the stain layer.
They do NOTHING about mold or mildew on the surface of the stain. Only a periodic
cleaning will remove that mold or mildew, and borate treatments should never be viewed or presented to a consumer by a restoration contractor as a way to avoid regular maintenance.
Originally appeared in the column, The Log Home Corner and reprinted here by
permission from the author, Rich Littlefield.
Rich Littlefield has been in the log home restoration industry for almost a decade. In addition to using almost every commercially available stain in the area, he has developed a stain system that addresses concerns found specifically in the Southeast geographic region. He has given restoration and maintenance seminars at various log home shows and manufacturer sponsored events. He also offers maintenance seminars and plans for Home Owners Associations, commercial complexes, and individuals. Finally he is fully involved in consulting, evaluations, and offering restoration services and supplies.

See this and other articles at http://www.avalonloghomes.com

reBlog from Avalonloghomes: Avalon Log Homes

2009-09-20T13:15:00.001-07:00

I found this fascinating quote today:

Log Cabins in America date back to the early 1600's when European settlers fashioned simple structures from the abundant virgin forest lands of the New World. Utilitarian in their design, these early Log Cabins were long on function and practicality but short on modern day habitability. Yet, over the years, these primitive Log Cabins and their decedents have managed to win a place in the hearts of millions of Americans.Avalonloghomes, Avalon Log Homes, Sep 2009

You should read the whole article.

Learning About Log Cabins

2009-09-20T08:12:00.000-07:00

Learning About Log Cabins

Log Cabins in America date back to the early 1600's when European settlers fashioned simple structures from the abundant virgin forest lands of the New World. Utilitarian in their design, these early Log Cabins were long on function and practicality but short on modern day habitability. Yet, over the years, these primitive Log Cabins and their decedents have managed to win a place in the hearts of millions of Americans.

Though, the premise of using logs to construct the cabin's shell remains the same today as it was in the Seventeenth Century, today's Log Cabins have evolved into highly efficient, structurally superior modern-day masterpieces.

Prospective log cabin owners will find there are two main types of log cabins to choose from-Milled and Handcrafted Log homes. Though most log home companies feature only one type of log cabin, Avalon Log Homes proudly offers both milled and handcrafted log cabins.

A milled log cabin is the product of an automated manufacturing process that converts raw logs into a precision milled product of exacting dimensions and profiles. Milled log cabins typically feature an interlocking mechanism that allows manufactured logs to fit snugly when stacked. Likewise, milled log cabins allow for several different corner styles and log lengths.

Unlike a milled log cabin, a handcrafted log cabin represents the time-honored art of logsmithing. These handmade homes are constructed using many of the same practices as those employed by early American and European logsmiths centuries ago. Using mostly hand tools, logsmiths cut and shape logs from carefully selected trees so that each log fits perfectly on top of each other. As such, the logs used in a handcrafted log cabin retain many of the individual characteristics of the tree they once were and are generally more rustic looking than milled logs.

Constructing a home using Log Siding has grown in popularity in recent years. Unlike milled or handcrafted log cabins, log siding is combined with conventional stud framing and insulation to create the look and feel of a log home without using full logs.

When setting out to purchase a log cabin, buyers often mistake a log home materials package for all the components required to construct a finished log home. The reality is that because there is no real standard within the log cabin industry, buyers may find it challenging to conduct an apples-to-apples comparison of competing companies' materials packages.

Avalon Log Homes offers two standard material packages for prospective homeowners to choose from. These include a Log Walls & Gables Package and a Standard Weathertight Shell. To simplify, this process, Avalon Log Homes has created an easy to follow Materials Package Matrix to help prospective homeowners understand and compare Avalon Log Home's materials packages with others.

Log cabins are constructed using a variety of tree species and no one is necessarily better than another. Several factors, including environmental conditions, structural requirements, homeowner preference, availability and cost of course, often combine to create a shortlist of most commonly used species. Avalon Log Homes offers its clients the ability to build using any species of wood, but mostly uses the following species: Douglas Fir, Engelmann Spruce, Hemlock, Larch, Lodgepole Pine, Ponderosa Pine and Western Red Cedar.

Common to all tree species is their susceptibility to shrink, once harvested. Shrinkage in wood occurs when its moisture content reduces to match the humidity of the surrounding environment. Though some species are thought to be less prone to shrinkage than others, all wood used in log home construction will experience some degree of shrinkage.

Though shrinkage is a natural process that often poses no structural concern to logs in their raw form, building with logs that contain high moisture content (or green logs) can present serious structural problems if shrinkage is not properly accounted for. Because shrinkage can cause log walls to settle over time (sometimes considerably), engineers and builders must take steps to manage this settling so that is does not compromise the structural integrity or functionality of the cabin.

As a proactive measure, Log cabin manufactures employ a variety of different methods of drying wood to accelerate the shrinkage process prior to building. Kiln-drying and dead standing are the most commonly used methods. Avalon Log Homes uses the dead standing drying method, which utilizing trees that have been killed but have not been cut down. Because the trees are generally standing dead for a number of years, much if not all of the shrinkage has already occurred and thus less is likely to occur in the constructed log cabin.

Also common to all tree species is their susceptibility to insects, weathering and decay. As organic material, wood in its original state is a product of nature and is subject to its laws. Once harvested, wood naturally begins to decay and without some form of preservation will steadily decompose until it is reduced to organic matter and is consumed by new plant growth.

Modern day wood preservatives allow us to slow this process to a near glacier pace and thus postpone wood's demise for a good century or so. Especially significant to log home owners whose exterior shell is exposed wood, the use of proper preservative treatments throughout the home's lifetime will mean the difference between a home that lasts for generations or a decaying mass of plant food.

Log cabins, if manufactured and built correctly, offer comparable to superior energy efficiency versus conventional framed homes. Numerous independent studies have proven that log walls possess especially high thermal mass which makes them as energy-efficient as any well insulated frame wall and superior to most. Unlike R-value, the traditional measure of energy efficiency, thermal mass is a material's capacity to conduct, store and release heat over time given significant variances in temperature. Most notable of these studies was over a decade long study conducted by Log Homes Council (a division of the National Association of Home Builders). This and other studies have confirmed what many log cabin owners have know for years; log cabin stays cooler in the summer and warmer in winter.

See this and other articles at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/custom-log-home-plans-cabins

Dead Standing Timber for Stability in Luxury Log Homes

2009-09-13T14:30:00.000-07:00

Dead Standing Timber for Stability in Luxury Log Homes

High in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, vast tracts of timber have been killed by periodic beetle epidemics. The beetles kill green trees, but do not harm the wood, leaving a tree dead but still standing and sound. There, at high altitudes, where the humidity is low and the precipitation is mostly snow, trees stand for years, sometimes decades. Over time, this dry climate and natural curing process thoroughly dries dead-standing trees.

Dry wood is necessary for dimensionally stable lumber and house logs. Wood used in conventional home construction is dried, usually by kiln or air drying. This process works fine for lumber and boards, but with sizable pieces of wood, such as house logs, the results are far from satisfactory. While kiln or air drying logs yields a certain degree of dryness, it's difficult to dry large house logs all the way to the center by duplicating the natural aging process.

All logs shrink, warp, and crack to some extent during the drying and aging process. With Avalon Log Homes “ALH” Logs, the shrinkage and warpage have already occurred before the logs are used in your house. Our house logs, made from dead-standing timber, are stable.

By building with ALH Logs, you get benefits in both in the long run with the stability of your home, and in the short run ‹ with labor and freight savings due to lighter weight.

House logs from dead-standing timber greatly simplify every phase of construction. Builders using green logs must take extraordinary precautions to allow for settling and shrinking. Openings for doors and windows are built oversized and with special designs so that over the years the settling logs do not press down on windows and doors. Hundreds of joints have to be routed and splined to prevent gaps as the house ages and to keep logs from splitting. Corner systems have to be engineered to keep corners from separating.

With ALH Logs made from dead-standing timber, we don't have to make these allowances for drying and aging wood because our logs have been thoroughly cured before they are ever used in a house. ALH Log Home construction is simple and straightforward, practical for do-it-yourself builders or professionals, and much less labor-intensive than green construction.

We are one of the few log manufacturers who qualify to use the word "dry" on our gradestamp, indicating moisture content of less than 19%. Fact is, most of the house logs we mill are less than 14% moisture content.

See this and other luxury log home articles at http://www.avalonloghomes.com

Thermal Mass Benefits of Luxury Log Homes

2009-09-13T13:31:00.000-07:00

Thermal Mass Benefits of Luxury Log Homes

The nation's Model Energy Code finally recognizes the energy-conservation benefits of thermal mass. After 13 years, the LHC's claim a log wall's thermal mass makes it as energy efficient as a well-insulated frame wall has been acknowledged. The situation could be cause for adopting an "I told you so" attitude, but that won't happen. "The Log Homes Council (LHC) doesn't feel smug, it just feels vindicated," says Barbara Martin, LHC's executive director.

The situation in question is the fact the nation's Model Energy Code finally recognizes the energy-conservation benefits of thermal mass. This is a victory for the LHC. After 13 years, its claim a log wall's thermal mass makes it as energy efficient as a well-insulated frame wall has been acknowledged. Achieving this acceptance has been a major goal for the LHC, a part of the Building Systems Councils of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB).

See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/thermal-mass

Selecting Windows for Log Homes

2009-09-10T14:07:00.000-07:00

Selecting Windows for Log Homes

Selecting windows for a log home is one of the most important decisions to be made.
Window locations should be selected based on the views that one needs to present. Some
window locations are required due to code requirements such as egress windows in
bedrooms.

When planning a log home it is common for people to not put enough thought into selecting their windows. Choosing windows is an important task, because they will not only affect your home’s looks, they’ll play a major role in its energy efficiency.
See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/documents/Selecting%20Windows%20for%20Log%20Homes.pdf

Making Allowances for Settlement in Luxury Log Homes

2009-09-10T14:00:00.000-07:00

Making Allowances for Settlement in Luxury Log Homes
By Jim Cooper of Log Homes Made Easy Online

For Luxury Log Homes, wood shrinkage and the resulting settlement and movement are not problems but characteristics of working with a natural material. Shrinkage only becomes a problem when the manufacturer, builder or home owner fails to recognize or respect it. I would much rather have a log home made from logs with 30 or even 40 percent moisture content, that is designed and built with full recognition of that fact, than a house made from logs at 20 percent moisture content, designed and constructed in denial that any more shrinkage or settlement will take place.
How much shrinkage or settlement are we actually talking about? I certainly hope that no one expects a log home to drop down around their ears from settlement. While it is important and under certain conditions even critical, most settlement and shrinkage concerns are more for energy efficiency, maintenance time and expense and construction quality than for structural integrity. The basic engineering of a log home makes for a strong house that can withstand a great deal of design and construction abuse.
See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/allowances-settlements

Avalon Log Homes Summer 2009 Newsletter

2009-09-01T09:53:00.000-07:00

Check out Avalon Log Homes Summer 2009 Newsletter for the latest log home information at http://www.box.net/shared/b4q8ild1yp

Log Cabins and Termites

2009-08-30T05:34:00.000-07:00

Log Cabins and Termites
By Log Home Builders Association

Many people erroneously believe that log homes are very susceptible to termite infestation and damage. In reality one could argue that log homes are less susceptible to such damage than stick framed homes - especially if preventative measures are taken during the construction of your log home.

Let's first look at the real reason that termites can cause so much damage to a stick frame home. With a stick frame home they can enter into wall cavities undetected. A termite infestation unseen is a termite infestation untreated. Once in the cavity the termites remain unseen, nibbling, chewing, breeding, and generally ruining your home.

Over a 5 to 10 year span you might find many structural supports within an infected home to be significantly damaged and weakened. Often the first sign of such damage is when the homeowner goes to replace a piece of sheet rock during a small remodel - and that small remodel soon turns into a full scale renovation or even a demolition.

See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-termites

Pouring Concrete During Cold Weather for Log Cabins

2009-08-30T05:28:00.000-07:00

Pouring Concrete During Cold Weather for Log Cabins
By: Log Home Builders Association

Sometimes, out of necessity or eagerness, you may start working on the foundation of
your log home in the middle of winter. Pouring concrete during cold weather can be a
little tricky, because pouring concrete in freezing temperatures can cause serious
problems. If you really want to pour concrete in winter there are some easy precautions
you can take in order to help ensure that you’ll end up with a rock solid foundation.

First off, let’s talk about what can happen if you pour concrete in cold weather without
taking any precautions. Concrete cures through a chemical process that both creates and
requires heat. If it cools too rapidly, due to cold weather, it can be seriously weakened
(not desirable). You can also end up with fractures in your foundation caused by water
freezing within the concrete, or can have spalling problems.

Generally the kind of cold weather that can negatively impact freshly poured concrete is
3 consecutive days of 40 F or below (average temp). Even if the temp is bouncing
between the 40’s and 50’s you might still have problems. Effective communication with
your concrete supplier, and checking your local weather report, should give you the
definitive answer as to whether or not you’ll need to take extra precautions against cold
weather at the time of your pour.

If you do end up needing to pour concrete in cold weather, then there are several different
precautions you may want to take:
1) There are ‘anti-freeze like’ admixtures that can be effective at stopping the water
within concrete from freezing. Such an admixture will extend the temperature range in
which concrete can effectively cure.
2) Air-entrainment admixtures also help concrete deal with low temperatures by trapping
tiny air bubbles within the mix, which in theory gives the freezing water someplace to
gather without damaging your foundation.
3) A load of concrete can also be heated prior to leaving the yard. Starting out at a
higher temp means it’ll stay warmer longer and can resist the cooling action of the cold
weather long enough to form a good, solid set.
4) You can also request a mix of concrete that has extra cement added to it. That can
help the mix quickly develop the strength needed to handle freezing temperatures.
5) Order a ‘drier’ mix of concrete. Since there will be less moisture within the mix that
can freeze, the freezing effects of the temperatures will have less of an effect.
6) Use insulating blankets or insulated boxes to cover your foundation or pier blocks.
This will help trap in the heat of the concrete preventing it from cooling too quickly. You
can also use a ‘heated box’ of some sort if the weather is really cold.

When pouring in cold weather your concrete supplier will likely recommend one or more
of the above precautions. Pay attention to what the supplier recommends, because after
all they are the one who will be most familiar with what works best in your area – at the
time of year your doing your pour.

While waiting for spring or summer may make the construction process easier, working
on your foundation in winter is sometimes possible provided you take appropriate steps.
Be sure to talk with your concrete supplier about what precautions to take.

For additional information you can check out the following resources:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/104_Cold_Weather_Concrete_Installation.shtml
http://www.pathnet.org/sp.asp?id=14138
http://www.bobvila.com/BVTV/HomeAgain/Video-0815-03-0.html
http://www.flboa.com/pdf/jan-06/Cold-Weather-Concrete.pdf
See this and more articles at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-information-news-technology

STAINING DO’S AND DON’TS FOR YOUR LUXURY LOG HOMES

2009-08-30T05:24:00.000-07:00

STAINING DO’S AND DON’TS FOR YOUR LUXURY LOG HOMES
By Michigan Wood Products

Proper preparation of your log siding product before staining, as well as the staining procedure itself, can ensure that your finished logs or log siding exceeds your expectations or the expectations of your client. Here are some valuable tips for the proper preparation of the wood, and application of wood staining products.

Log Quality is Critical: The sap-ring in log measures 2/3 the diameter of the tree trunk. .
Sap causes what is typically seen as a blued or black blotches on the wood -- even with
the very best of stain applications! ALL the sapwood should be pulled aside during the
drying and milling process. Simply stated, using inferior log siding products milled from
sapwood may be inexpensive to begin with, but in the long run will cost more time and
effort to maintain and will result in less satisfaction with the appearance of the home.

Prepare the Log Siding: Use a TSP wash (Tri Sodium Phosphate) to open up the
cellular structure of the wood so the stain will penetrate further into the grain.

Stain Quality: It’s always best to research the different stain qualities available at your
local stain store. Check online to make sure you are getting the quality you want for the
money you want to spend. There are a wide range of products, and of course, the best
products are the most expensive. Even a quality stain will not wear well if preparation is
inadequate or sun exposure is excessive. Look for guarantees and for stain life
expectancies as published by the manufacturer. Follow all manufacturers’
recommendations for product preparation and stain application.
Stain Application: Stain doesn’t go on like a coating of paint and doesn’t function like
paint in the protection of your log siding product. Unlike paint, stain is designed to soak
into the wood. Two healthy coats of stain back-brushed into the wood itself are much
better than one heavy coat of stain, which sits on the surface. If you apply your stain like
a thick coat of paint, the stain will ultimately chip, crack and peal.

Color Choice: The predominant enemy of stain is the UV rays of the sun. Lighter stain
colors will fail faster than darker stain colors because UV rays penetrate further into the
lighter colored product.

Limit Sun Exposure: If you are still designing your home, you might want to position
your home in relation to the sun in order to minimize sun exposure. It’s always good to
have an 18 – 24 inch overhanging soffit on your roof to keep your log siding out of the
sun as much as possible.

See this and more articles at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-information-news-technology

Landscaping Your New Log Home

2009-08-19T20:41:00.000-07:00

Landscaping Your New Log Home

The landscape of your home goes deeper than the roots of your plants. Proper drainage is essential to your landscape. Before you even begin to think about plants and flowers, your site will need to be graded for good drainage. Surfaces like driveways, patios and walkways should also slope away from your home to keep rainwater from running off into your foundation.

You'll need to handle rainwater on your site through downspouts that correctly funnel water away from your home.
In some areas, irrigation is a concern. If you live in one of these areas, you'll need to plan ahead for a system that waters your lawn and landscape, or use xeriscaping, a landscape system that employs plants with lower demands for water and fertilizer.

See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-landscaping

Decorating Your New Log Home

2009-08-19T20:36:00.000-07:00

Decorating Your New Log Home

The overall livability of your new Avalon log home has as much to do, if not more, with how it's decorated as it does with its design and construction. Anyone who has ever built a new home can tell you that the demands of the design and building processes can easily result in decor planning taking an unfortunate back seat. In an effort to ensure that your Avalon log home is as cozy on the inside as it is impressive everywhere else, we've assembled the following information, courtesy of Log Home Living, to assist you with your decorating strategy. See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-decor-decorating

Log Homes, Luxury Log Homes, Log Cabin Homes, Log Home Prices by Avalon Log Homes - Services at Cowboy.com

2009-08-18T22:35:00.001-07:00

Log Homes, Luxury Log Homes, Log Cabin Homes, Log Home Prices by Avalon Log Homes - Services at Cowboy.com

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Finding Luxury Log Homes Builders

2009-08-15T07:42:00.000-07:00

Finding Luxury Log Homes Builders

The relationship between you and builder should be one of trust & comfort. You must be able to trust your builder and feel comfortable with the choice you made.
Avalon Log Homes partners with only exceptional quality builders and holds them to strict standards of quality and conduct. Unlike most companies, Avalon's extensive network of authorized dealers is comprised of mostly seasoned builders. As an Avalon Log Homes homeowner, you can be assured that our builders are some of the finest in the business. Prospective log homeowners who are currently sourcing qualified builder should consider the following guide courtesy of Avalon Log Homes. See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-builders-construction

Financing Options for New Luxury Log Homes

2009-08-15T07:40:00.000-07:00

Financing Options for New Luxury Log Homes

Though certainly no small task for most, securing the financing funds required to pay for your log home project is certainly not insurmountable thanks to the numerous log home financing options available today. In fact, log home financing options have greatly expanded over the last few years, despite the claims of naysayer's (see Log Home Myths). The following information, courtesy of The Log Home Council, discusses recent developments within the log home financing market. See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-financing-cabins

Full Log Gables on Luxury Log Homes (Yes or No)

2009-08-15T07:36:00.000-07:00

Full Log Gables on Luxury Log Homes (Yes or No)

Full log gables on milled projects is a source of much debate in the log home industry.
Recently, Avalon Log Homes took up this issue and analyzed the pros and cons
of both options. Following much thought and research, Avalon Log Homes
has chosen to offer log sided gables as the standard and full log gables as
an option.

“The decision was based both on feedback we received from dealers
and our capability to mill siding product to match the wall logs” said Roy Williams, Production Manager of Avalon Log Homes. “By going with siding vs. full
logs, we’re able to reduce the settling concerns and allows us to be more competitive too” Williams added.

Clarence Pond, Avalon Log Homes Mgr. of Operations cautions that
builders take special care when framing gable-ends to ensure the installed
siding will be flush with the wall logs. Detailed instructions regarding the
installation of gable and dormer siding are included in Avalon Log Homes Construction Manual.

For more information regarding this and other luxury log homes information go to http://www.avalonloghomes.com

Learning About Log Homes

2009-07-29T18:51:00.000-07:00

Learning About Log Homes

Log Homes in America date back to the early 1600's when European settlers fashioned simple structures from the abundant virgin forest lands of the New World. Utilitarian in their design, these early Log Homes were long on function and practicality but short on modern day habitability. See rest of article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-home-guides

Planning and Budgeting For Log Homes

2009-07-26T07:00:00.000-07:00

Planning and Budgeting For Log Homes
The first step to building your dream home is to create a realistic construction budget based on what you can comfortably afford. In some cases, this may require modifying the floor plan or the overall design to meet your limitations. Keep in mind that this needs to be a realistic and attainable number (don't look at $500,000 projects if all you can afford is $150,000) and don't be afraid to be conservative with your estimate at first. See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/planning-log-homes-budgeting

Wood Species and Characteristics for Luxury Log Homes

2009-07-19T09:07:00.000-07:00

Wood Species and Characteristics for Luxury Log Homes

At Avalon Log Homes, we offer several different styles of logs, including milled handcrafted and half-log siding. We most typically use standing dead timber that has been harvested high in the Rockies. This means that our logs have already been dried by Mother Nature. We predominantly use Douglas fir, Engelman spruce and lodge pole pine. Our logs are approximately 14 – 16% moisture content. This low moisture content greatly reduces checking (cracking) and settling. It is unlikely that our logs will develop unexpected twisting and deformities. Our wall log diameters measure 6”, 7”, 8”, 9”, 10”, and 12” (other diameters available upon request). We also offer milled or handcrafted beam length logs available for purlins, trusses, porch posts, and other such uses.

Following is a brief discussion about logs:
Wood Species and Characteristics as written in the ILBA Land to Lock up Manual

The log home: by definition, logs are the single most predominant characteristic of these log homes, and the very reason builders and owners alike, are drawn to this form of construction. What could be more natural? The appeal of logs is apparent to all log homebuilders and owners. Visitors to log structures are immediately drawn to touch the logs, soothed by their strength and character. (How often do you see people caress drywall?)
The longevity and strength of logs is evidenced in the well-built log structures of Norway and Russia, which are still standing proud and true after more than 800 years. The integrity of the structural design is essential to a long-lived legacy, and a careful look at structural components is critical. The choice of what logs to use is also an important consideration, and it is worth understanding the differences and characteristics of various species.

Different building styles can dictate what types of logs are used. Handcrafted log homebuilders select logs based on an extensive list of characteristics. Different species may be superior for certain joinery techniques, building design, and structural performance. Geographic location (where the logs are going to, or where they are coming from) might also be a consideration in wood selection. Weight bearing logs such as wall logs, floor joists, roof rafters, purlins and truss components usually require engineering and some species are better suited for these structural requirements.

The log builder, presented with the task of selecting appropriate wood for a project, needs to consider what lengths are required, what the average mid-span diameter is, what is the amount of taper the logs have and what maximum butt size and minimum top size are acceptable.

Midspan size of log diameter will contribute to the thermal performance; the larger the log, the greater the “R” value attributed to it, based on formulations attributed to various species of wood. Depending on climatic requirements and local building regulations, a minimum log diameter will be required. Based on an average R 1.5 per inch of log diameter, coupled with the extent and integrity of joinery between the log surfaces, a minimum 10” log is an acceptable norm for log diameters in colder climates.

One might, however, use logs of smaller diameter if the purpose of the building is, for example, a summer cottage.
No matter how dry the logs are, all log structures must be built to accommodate shrinkage and settling. Whether building with seasoned wood, dead standing, green, winter cut, or kiln dried, a knowledgeable log builder builds according to moisture content, anticipation and allowing for movement in response to the drying and seasoning process with allocations for shrinkage and settling of logs.

As wood fiber loses moisture, cell walls shrink and collapse, which can reduce the overall diameter of a log by as much as 6%. This factor, accumulated over the finished height of a log wall, as well as through door and window openings and structural support points, must be accommodated.

Moisture gain and loss can also be affected by roof overhangs, proper elevation from grade, and treatment to the wood surfaces with effective stains and preservatives. Controlling moisture content of the logs is important. A surface stain or preservative must allow the logs to breath and expel excess moisture; otherwise an environment for rot and decay is created. In some very arid areas, humidity should be introduced into a log home in order to stabilize wood fibers as well as to slow down the drying process and avoid radical checking.

In cold climates, logs react differently during the seasonal changes. Warm interior log walls may dry out. Meanwhile the outside surfaces remain frozen and do not continue losing moisture until the hot summer sun beats down. Unless the log building is constructed from dead standing or kiln dried logs, this see-saw process of moisture balancing can continue for a number of years before the wood stabilizes.

Most handcrafted log builders prefer to work with green wood, preferably winter-cut (when the sap is still down in the roots). Green logs are more easily crafted and a skilled builder will calculate moisture loss and its effects and will build to compensate for shrinkage and settling.

Since seasoned fire-killed, kiln-dried, or dead-standing timber is more difficult for handcrafters to work with, it is often preferred for use in chinked log wall structures where less work is required on the laterals. Dead standing and kiln-dried wood can also be used in full scribe work. While “dry” wood does settle less it will still lose moisture and the log builder must anticipate and build accordingly.

“A rose by any other name is still a rose.” One of the greatest discussions between builders, and perhaps, one of the questions we are most frequently asked by our clients; is what species of wood should be used. Cost plays a role in choosing wood species, but it is not the most important factor, since all species have their own desirable traits.

Geographic location and forest ecosystem bear the greatest influence on log selection. Primarily softwoods are chosen due to their superior “R” factor, ease of handling, straightness of grain, and availability. Cedars, Pine, Spruce, Fir, and Larch are all commonly used as building logs, and each has different qualities. Western Red Cedar contains turpentine’s within its resins thus rendering it more rot resistant, and it does not check or shrink as drastically as other species. Douglas fir is heralded for its superior density, if it lacks in simple “R” value, it is made up for in structural performance. Spruce is valued for its light color, and while it may not match the qualities of Douglas fir for structural loading, it is none the less an excellent choice of building log.

For more information please contact:

Avalon Log Homes (208) 463-8668 www.avalonloghomes.com

A Discussion of How Logs Are Graded for Luxury Log Homes

2009-07-14T14:32:00.000-07:00

A Discussion of How Logs Are Graded for Luxury Log Homes

The following information is compiled from various articles courtesy of Avalon Log Homes (208) 463-8668 www.avalonloghomes.com:

**Avalon Log Homes uses Wall Log 40, or better.**

Logs are graded by visual inspection. All of the factors, such as knots, slope of grain, checks and splits, decay, holes, etc. that affect the strength of a log are taken into consideration when assigning the grade. These strength altering factors, or “defects,” found during visual inspection result in the assigned grade.

The list of defects include the following: burl, checks, compression wood, decay, edge, holes, knots, manufacturing imperfections, pitch, pitch streak, pockets, shake, slope of grain, splits, trim, wane, warp, and others.

Each grade has an “allowed design stress value,” which is used by engineers and architects to choose the appropriate species, size and grade of log for the application being considered. It is also used by local code officials to assure them that the logs meet the building code requirements.

WHAT ARE THE GRADES AND WHAT DO THEY MEAN ?

Timber Products Inspection is a national grading agency which has established a grading program. Their program establishes the grade restrictions for each grade for wall logs. The grades are, from highest to lowest: Premium, Select, Rustic, Wall Log 40, Wall Log 30 and Wall Log 27.
“Slope of Grain” is one of the restrictions used in determining grades. Slope of Grain is a measure of the degree of twist evident in the log. This is measured by the amount of grain twist in a given distance down the length of the log. For example, 1 in 12, means the grain moved away from the axis of the log one inch in a distance of twelve inches.

Using this factor as an example of the progressive relaxation of the restriction you will find the following pattern. In the Premium grade the restriction for Slope of Grain is 1 in 12; in the Select grade it is 1 in 10; in the Rustic grade it is 1 in 8; in the Wall Log 40 grade it is 1 in 6; in the Wall Log 30 grade it is 1 in 5.

Since Slope of Grain is measuring the twist that developed in the log while it was alive and growing, it is, in effect, predicting the risk that the log will “untwist” and the degree to which it will untwist. A Slope of Grain of 1 in 12 indicates a very low risk the log will untwist and if it does the movement will be very minimal. On the other hand, a Slope of Grain of 1 in 5 indicates a likeliness to untwist and to move considerably while doing so. If this log is in the middle of your living room wall and it moves significantly it is likely something unwanted will occur, such as a gap in the wall allowing air and water to penetrate.

In each of the restrictions affecting the grade of a log you will find a similar progressive relaxation of the restriction, thus allowing greater risk of potential unwanted results or performance of the log over time.

Although the grades and restrictions are technical and quantitative their importance to the homeowner are their usefulness in assessing the risk of unwanted results or performance. Simply stated the greater the restriction of any defect allowed in a log the greater the probability that the log will perform well, without unwanted results, over a long period of time. The lower the restriction, the greater the probability the log will develop unwanted results and poor performance over time.

Using graded logs not only assures you that you are building “legally” anywhere in the US, it gives you the knowledge of the likelihood of the performance of your logs over time. And, it gives you the ability to determine the value you are getting—the price versus quality comparison.
For more information please contact: Avalon Log Homes (208) 463-8668 www.avalonloghomes.com

Securing Land for Your Log Home Investments

2009-06-13T21:28:00.000-07:00

Securing Land for Your Log Home Investments

Perhaps the most critical step in building the log home of your dreams is securing the land that will serve as its backdrop. A magnificent log home deserves an equally magnificent location to complete the log home experience. However, not every picturesque property is well suited for your building needs. The following information, courtesy of Avalon Log Homes, will assist you in locating, securing and utilizing the perfect piece of land: See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/property-investments-log-homes-cabins

Avalon Log Homes - Preservation and Maintenance of Log Homes

2009-05-11T12:06:00.000-07:00

Preservation and Maintenance of Log Homes
Proactive log home maintenance should be of supreme importance to any homeowner. When it comes to caring for a log home, many have been falsely led to believe that the requirements are so stringent that homeowners spend more time repairing their home than they do enjoying it (see Log Home Myths). Though this is entirely untrue, log homes, like any home, do require regular and timely maintenance. See the rest of this article at
www.avalonloghomes.com/maintenance-log-homes-cabins

Avalon Log Homes-Log Homes Myths

2009-04-26T16:43:00.000-07:00

Avalon Log Homes-Log Homes Myths

Log homes are less expensive than a conventional home
This is a subject of great debate and high emotion within the log home industry. The truth is that while it is very possible to build a log home for less than a framed home, in most cases the cost to complete a log home for the average log home buyer will be more than a basic framed home. That said, many contend that comparing a modern day log home with a basic framed home is not a fair comparison and argue that when compared to a custom framed or brick home, the cost of a log home is very competitive. See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/log-homes-cabins-myths

Log Home Custom Design Planning

2009-04-15T17:48:00.000-07:00

Log Home Custom Design Planning

When it comes to designing your custom log home, it's easy to be blinded by the shear excitement and emotion of seeing your plans begin to take shape. However, you should always keep a healthy does of reality close by to ensure that you avoid potentially damaging situations that could quickly turn your excitement to frustration.
Fortunately, Avalon Log Homes offers complete custom design services created to navigate clients through the sometimes-treacherous waters of the design process. In addition, we've assembled the following information as a reference to our prospective log homeowners. See the rest of this article at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/custom-log-home-plans-cabins.