About Avalon Log Homes
Avalon Log Homes - Blending Luxury with Nature Avalon Log Homes is your Log Home connection all over the USA & Canada. Our expert team provides the finest quality log products and planning services to make your dream home become a reality. Log Homes, Custom Homes, Custom Design Services,
Avalon Log Homes was founded by industry veterans and seasoned business
Professionals with close to a century of collective experience and more than 1000
log & conventional homes built. While Avalon Log Homes is certainly not the oldest log home manufacturer in the business, or the biggest, we are absolutely committed to becoming one of the world’s premier log home manufacturers.
Since our inception, we've built our business and strong reputation on a few basic
Core Values that guide everything we do. These include Integrity, Pride, Service,
Stewardship and Quality. Operating in this fashion has helped us grow Avalon Log Homes to be one of the fastest growing, most well respected log home
manufactures in the business.
Friday, December 17, 2010
Foundation Design For Log Homes
The building department in your area will have a lot to say about the type and design of your foundation and what they will allow.Before you go off and buy a log home kit, you need to know a few basics.
The first decision that you will be faced with is the foundation of course. Should you build on piers, on a solid foundation, on stilts or should you include a basement. The lot that you are building on will give you your first hint. If you have a lot that has a decent slope to it and it is perfect for a basement, you might want to consider adding one. The why of this is that a basement is going to be the cheapest square footage that you can get and will add more resale value than almost any other choice you are going to make. Typically a basement will cost you no more than thirty to forty dollars per square foot, depending of course on the market that you live in. If you want a solid foundation and the lot is suited to a basement, the cost will not be much more than the solid foundation alone. Then there is the pier or stilt method, this works well and cuts costs considerable, the downside to this is that the sub-floor is going to require extra insulation. Another drawback to these types of foundations is stability, when you leave an open air-space below your house, you are giving mother nature a toe hold on your house. Log homes are heavy and they need all the stability that they can get. In a storm or tornado, your house is more likely to shift if the wind can get under it. The biggest advantage of these foundations is cost. They are certainly cheaper and allow you to get to the meat of your project allot quicker. If cost is a deciding factor, you can always enclose the foundation at a later date. Another drawback to this type of foundation is the water and electrical lines. Of course you don't have to worry about your electrical lines freezing, but your water lines are five times more likely to freeze with an open foundation. There is heat tape that you can apply, but these products do die and they don't tell you when they die. If you decide to go this route be sure to check your anti-freeze systems every year before winter and monthly during winter.
Another newer type of foundation on the market is the pre-cast panel system. These are great because they do not require a footing and can be installed in a few days (in most cases). After your panels are set, the builder comes in and installs a termite shield and then the sill plate. Almost all pre-cast systems require that the sill plate lap at least four foot on to the next panel. This is what locks them together and keeps them from shifting. This is IMPORTANT, if your builder neglects to do this properly, your foundation can shift when back-filled and the warranty will be voided. This is not easy to fix because the way the system works you cannot back-fill until the sub-floor is on. You will not discover the problem until it becomes a very expensive process. After your sub-floor is installed, you can pour the basement floor and lock in the walls permanently, then and only then can you backfill.
Now for the newest type of foundation to hit the building world, The hollow foam block. These blocks are made of Styrofoam which interlock and are stacked very quickly. During the stacking process a series of reinforcement bars are installed along with plastic spreader pieces. (The plastic pieces prevent the blocks from spreading when they are filled with concrete.) While stacking the blocks, all of the openings are formed out, as a result these form boards become permanent bucks for your windows and doors. It is best to use pressure treated material for the bucks. Once everything is in place and a few kickers (which keep everything from shifting) are installed, it is time to pour the concrete. This is best done with a pump truck or a conveyor truck as trying to pour this much concrete with wheelbarrows and buckets is too time consuming. The concrete could set up in the bottom of the forms and cause you to have cold joints.
Whatever type of foundation that you choose, all of them will need a termite shield on top of them before the sill plate is installed. A termite shield is a continuous aluminum sheet (aluminum flashing comes in rolls from ten inches to two feet wide) at least two inches wider than the top of the foundation. Flush this material with the outside of the wall and let it hang over on the inside. The theory behind this is that termites cannot walk over the slick aluminum preventing them from building a tunnel up the inside of the wall up to the sub-floor. Do not neglect this process. This is not a costly procedure and can save your home in the long run. Do not let your contractor or anyone else talk you out of this step.
When building the foundation you will need some sort of method to attach the sill plate. (sill plates are almost always pressure treated two by sixes) In the case of the pre-cast concrete panels, they leave holes for you to bolt the sill plate on. Use every hole and the hardware provided as it will be rated for this application, this is extremely important when using this type of system and it could void your warranty if you don't. In some areas, such as coastal plains, your local codes will dictate how you must attach your sill plate.
The most common fastener for sill plates is the anchor bolt with a threaded nut and washer. These bolts are shaped like an L and are usually put in the wet concrete about every four feet or as required by your local codes. (keep in mind when you are installing your bolts that wherever one board ends you want two bolts so that the end of one isn't just laying there, this is especially true at the corners of the wall where you may need as many as three bolts, lay out where your boards are going on top of the wall to better plan for bolt placement) When you install your termite shield, just lay it out on top of the bolts and working from right to left, hit the flashing lightly with a wooden headed hammer on top of the anchor bolt, this will knock a hole in the flashing where you need it then you can drive the metal down flat on each side of the bolt. Be careful not to damage the threads on your anchor bolts, if you want to play it safe, put a nut on the bolt before you hit the metal and after you have a hole in the flashing lift it up and take the bolt off, this will straighten any threads that you may have damaged. Once you have the flashing on, you can bolt down the sill plate. Work from right to left and measure each bolt from the end of where you are starting. Make a straight line across the board with a speed square and then measure how far the bolt is from the outside edge. (when installing the bolts, it is best to stagger them alternating in and out while making sure the leg on the bottom of the bolt is covered well) Pre-drill each hole using a bit that is no more than one-eighth inch larger than the bolts diameter. Once the board is in place (you may have to work the board back and forth while hitting it with a two pound hammer) place the washers and finally the bolts. Tighten until the wood starts to compress, making sure not to over-tighten as you can pull the anchor bolt right out of the concrete. (allow the concrete around the bolts to cure at least thirty-six hours before applying stress)
If you have chosen a block foundation that you do not plan on pouring solid with concrete, you can stuff the cells where your anchor bolts are going with the left over mortar bags. If you will pre-plan and layout where your floor joists are going on top of the wall, you can place your anchor bolts in such a way that they do not interfere with the joists. You do not want to have to notch your floor joists before you even get started good.( if you neglected to pre-plan your bolt placement, you can always counter-sink the nuts and cut the top of the bolt off with a sawz-all) Most log homes have a double rim joist ( I like to call it a boxing band, that is the board that borders the outside of your sub-floor framing and your joists will be attached to it) This means that your anchor bolts must be at least three and a half inches in from the outside of your wall. ( I realize that this does not allow for much staggering of the bolts, but whatever stagger you can get will be better than having them in a straight line) Technically all of the pressure on a sill plate is down pressure which means there is no lateral force on the plate. This means that bolting the plate down only fastens the structure to the foundation and typically the weight of the house would hold it in place. However, during a freak wind event, there can be strong lateral forces on these bolts. These bolts also help keep the boxing band (rim joist) still while the builder is working on the sub-floor.
Another consideration when planning the foundation is the final appearance. If you are planning on using stone or river rock for the exterior finish of your basement then the foundation must be left back the thickness of your material to look right. Typically you will find that most log homes have stone covering the block foundation. Try to stay away from anything thicker than two inches as this is almost the limit of set-back that you can get due to how the first log course much be attached to the sub-floor. (that is why there is a double boxing band or rim joist) You have an unlimited selection of materials to choose from when covering a foundation. One of the cheapest methods (versus painting the block) is to stucco the exterior wall, (natural stucco is just two or three layers of colored Portland cement, synthetic stucco is an expensive material that must be purchased be a licensed professional) the advantage of stucco is that no set-back is required making pre-planning a little easier. The biggest drawback to stucco is that if your builder doesn't use a good bonding agent or it is applied at too cold of a temperature, the material can flake off.
Then there is brick, honestly I don't think brick belongs anywhere near a log home, (that is a personal opinion) brick offers the same challenges as stone as you will need to set the foundation wall back to allow for the brick. There is also a product which is face brick which is only about five-eighths of an inch thick and goes on much quicker than standard brick. With this material you will also need to set the wall back to allow for the difference in thickness. Whatever the choice even if it is fake brick (stucco applied to one-half inch thick and then mortar lines scratched out to resemble brick) the challenges are certainly the same and must be accounted for before you begin construction.
Decks, porches, stairs or any other exterior attachment that will eventually be attached to your home at the sub-floor must be planned for now. Wherever you plan on putting a deck etc. plan on using a pressure treated board for your outside boxing band (rim joist.) Even though you will install a vapor barrier and a piece of aluminum flashing to protect your sub-floor, use a pressure treated rim joist at all of these areas. When you eventually build your deck etc. make sure to bolt it to the rim joist with lag bolts at least every two feet and preferably every sixteen inches (through bolting is even more efficient but requires more work), making sure that the bolts will penetrate through all three layers of the rim joist. (in most areas of the country this is code due to the many deaths and injuries from decks failing during parties or other unexpected load events) You especially want to use these methods if the deck or stair is not covered by a roof (technically a deck with a roof is a porch) even though you will probably slope the deck away from the house, water tends to get in places where we don't want it. More often than not this area of the boxing band will rot out if not planned for in advance making the attachment unstable and unsafe for you and your family. It is also a good idea to start your decking about an inch or so away from the edge of the house rim. This will allow water to fall and not lay up against your rim joist. You can prevent this before you even start if you know what to look for and how to solve the problems.
For more information see LR Goddwins foundation articles.
Monday, December 6, 2010
Monday, September 13, 2010
Log Home plan features a split 3 Bdrm, 2.5 Bath single level with garage. If you like wrap around covered porches this one has it! This is one of Avalon Log Home's most popular plans. The great room, huge kitchen, & nook is designed to for family enjoyment. Formal living room & Den are up front in the house. See this floorplan at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/edgewood
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Log Home Prevent Finish Failure Design Tips
There are a number of simple design and construction steps that you can incorporate into your log home to keep your wood finish in tip top shape.
In general, water is the enemy and to prevent finish failure and eventual rot you have to control it. Here are our design tips:
1. Always install gutters on your log home. The single biggest cause of finish failure and rot is water that runs off your roof, lands on a deck, patio or the ground and bounces back up onto your wood. Install gutters and you will control the water flow and divert it away from your exposed wood. To make sure that your gutters do the job all the time, spend the extra dollars for gutter protection products such as Gutter Helmut or Gutter Guard that keep your gutters clean and free flowing year round.
2. Maximize roof overhangs and install all around covered porches to the full extend that your budget will allow. In tandem with gutters, this keeps water off your logs and preserves the finish.
3. Never let your logs get any closer than two feet from decks, patios and ground areas that are exposed. If water bounces back up onto your foundation there is not much problem. When water bounces back onto the wood, this is where finish failure and rot begins. The simple answer is to make your foundation a little higher off the ground. Finish your foundation and floor system with stucco and/or cultured stone. In areas with high snow accumulations, extend stone and stucco up to the point of typical maximum snow depth. Logs are not designed to be buried in snow for weeks or months at a time.
By using these tips you will prolong the life of your log home finish and virtually eliminate the opportunity for log rot to begin.
Avalon Log Homes expert team provides the finest quality log products and design & planning services to make your dream log home become a reality all over the USA & Canada. Visit us at http://www.avalonloghomes.com or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Idaho Wine Month Encourages Local Consumers to Drink Local
From Article by Moya Shatz
Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission
In order to help promote the Idaho wine industry, June was declared as Idaho Wine Month by Governor Butch Otter in May 2009 to encourage consumers to buy Idaho products by purchasing wine grown in Idaho. Local restaurants, retail stores, and wine shops will be offering specials for those who purchase wines produced and bottled right here in Idaho during June to celebrate Idaho Wine Month. For a complete list of retailers offering specials, please see below and visit your local wine merchant.
As most of you know, Idaho is emerging into a major wine-producing state. With the long, hot days available to growers and our states rich volcanic soil, grapes are being grown and made into award winning wines. Idaho Wine Month brings people together for all of the tastes and treasures that Idaho has to offer. With the promotion of Idaho wine during Idaho Wine month, we hope many consumers will be tempted to purchase wine at a higher rate and continue to in the future.
To coincide with Idaho Wine Month, the Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission is hosting Savor Idaho, Idaho’s Premier Wine & Food Event for the second time. Focusing on Idaho wine and food, Savor Idaho will be held at the Idaho Botanical Garden on June 13th from 2-6pm, featuring many local wineries, restaurants, and exhibitors.
Below is a Woodriver Cellars specials that they will be offering to support the Idaho wine industry during Idaho wine month.
• $5.00 off the purchase of one bottle of wine.
• Free 3 oz pour of Woodriver Cellars’ “Featured Wine” with each dinner purchased on Friday and Saturday evenings from 6pm to 9pm throughout the month of June.
• Enjoy 20% off all cases for the month of June.
• New Wine Club members who sign up in the month of June receive a FREE bottle of their Sweet White or Sweet Pink with initial sign up.
• Thursday, June 10, 2010 attend “Perfect Pair” for their “Cuban” theme. They will have food, cigars and port on the back patio. Wine and cigar education is included in the evening, as well as Barrel Room Tours and tastings. Port by Woodriver Cellars and cigars by Sturman’s Smoke Shop.
• Friday and Saturday Tasting Room hours are from 11am to 10pm with dinner from 6pm to 9pm and live music from 7pm to 9pm.
Sunday-Thursday 11am-7pm; Friday & Saturday 11am-10pm
3705 North Hwy 16, Eagle
Phone: 208.286.WINE (9463)
Monday, May 17, 2010
Saving Money When Designing And Building Your Dream Log Home
Consider log home design options:
You have a wide variety of log home design options to consider.
At the top is a handcrafted log home or a timber frame log home. From there you can go with a milled log home and even a conventionally framed home with log siding and log accents for those on tighter budgets.
The savings start with the design of your log home. - The best way to begin your design is to find a floor plan that is close to what you are looking for, mark it with your changes and send it to one or more log home companies of your choice. Most log home companies will gladly advise you on your custom log home design, where to save money, and then quote a kit price. Don't be reluctant to begin a design with your unique requirements. Rarely (and I do mean rarely) does a company ship the same log home kit twice. If you are having difficulty finding a plan that fits your life style, go to a search engine (e.g., www.google.com , www.yahoo.com, etc.) and search on “log home plans.” You will find many log home companies listed; most of which have extensive libraries of standard floor plans. Another option would be to search on “house plans” where you will find a mind boggling number of companies that sell conventional house plans, including a few also offering log home plans. Remember, most log home companies will gladly convert a conventional house plan to a log home plan. Remember, the more corners in the foundation, the more complex the roof system, the more windows called for, the more exposed rafters called for (as opposed to locally manufactured roof trusses), the more the home will cost.
Do the log home labor yourself. - This is the opportunity for the greatest saving. Of course, most of us work full time at other jobs and do not have the time for such an undertaking. However, if your heart is set on researching this option, visit any of the online book sellers, search on “log homes” and order one or more books that focus on the construction of log homes. But perhaps the wisest choice would be to contact a nearby log builder and negotiate an hourly rate for consultation or have them give you a proposal to be a construction manager for you for a fixed fee or percentage on the costs. This method allows any savings to be passed back to you. It is best to spend time and money up front to get the job done right, rather than deal with problems later that never seem to go away.
Act as your own builder. - This is your option for the second greatest saving. Many log home buyers decide to be their own general contractor. However, be aware, this choice is not without its headaches. That is why you save all those bucks! Local building officials can be difficult to work with; subcontractors will be late or never show up; deliveries will be late or the wrong materials will be delivered; the weather is unpredictable; subcontractors and suppliers may take advantage of your inexperience. And the list goes on. Regardless of the pitfalls and stress, acting as your own general contractor will still save you about 15% - and that is big bucks. If you elect this option, again visit online book sellers, search on “log homes” and purchase one or more books that deal with log home construction. Contracting with an experienced builder to serve as an advisor or construction manager is highly recommended.
Shop for financing the same as you shop for building materials, appliances, etc. – If there is no local lender experienced in the financing of log homes, go to the search engines and search on “log home loans” or “log home mortgages.” Lenders will not charge you when you apply for a loan. File applications with two or more lenders and then select the best deal. Sometimes it’s good to look at a national log home lender with log home experience.
Select your building lot with caution. - How long will the driveway be? If you must install a septic system, a health permit is a prerequisite, and then, will it be necessary to pump to the drain field? Will it be necessary to cross a creek? How much grading will be involved? Is tree and stump removal going to be a problem? Will there be a rock problem when the foundation is excavated? In other words, a "cheap" lot can quickly become an expensive lot. If you are having difficulty finding a lot, contact a local real estate agent. Give the realtor your lot selection criteria (price range, location, size, etc.) and tell him/her to search the Multiple Listing Service data base. There is no charge for this service. The true price of the lot should include all those things necessary to have it ready to build on including driveway, sewer, water, & power systems on-site.
Select your log home builders with caution. - When talking to builders ask for references and visit log homes he/she has built and talk to the home owners.
Select carpet as your floor covering rather than hardwood floors. - Yes, hardwood floors are a "natural" in log homes. But we are looking for opportunities to save money. Perhaps you can compromise. Put hardwood in the great room and carpet elsewhere. Remember, at a later date (after you have received a job promotion or two) you can always replace carpet with hardwood.
Use Cultural Stone for wall accents and fireplaces attached to plywood and studs in lieu of a full masonry or stone. - Don't tell your friends. It's impossible to see the low cost plywood and studs thru the cultural stone. Real Stone also weighs a lot and can require additional structural support. This decision can save you a lot of money
Consider an efficient wood stove over an inefficient and more expensive fireplace. - Select black flue pipe instead of a masonry chimney. The black flue pipe looks great in a log home.
Build your log home on a crawl space rather than a basement. - Again, we are looking for opportunities to save money. Sure, a basement is cheap floor space and many buyers opt for the extra storage, shop and/or recreation room space; never-the-less, eliminating the basement will save $15,000 - $30,000 in a typical home.
Have your custom fixed glass manufactured locally. - Yes, your window supplier will want to order your fixed glass from the factory. While he/she is getting a quote from the factory, visit a local glass shop. You may be pleasantly surprised. Locally manufactured fixed glass windows are available with double glass and/or tinted glass.
Select your windows and doors with care. - This is a major opportunity for savings. Compare the quality and cost of several manufacturers before making a decision. If you expect to have a large number of windows and exterior doors, ask the suppliers if you qualify for a truck load discount.
Select your plumbing fixtures, electrical fixtures and kitchen cabinets with care. - These are also major opportunities for controlling your costs.
Start shopping early. - Whether you hire a builder to do a "turn key" job or act as the general contractor, you can save money on individual items in the house - for example, appliances, floor coverings, windows, doors, plumbing fixtures, kitchen cabinets, counter tops, etc., etc. The earlier you start shopping the more likely you are to find items on sale. Just let your "turn key" builder know in advance that you plan to shop for sale items and BE AWARE, if you slow down or inconvenience the builder, you will quickly lose what you saved and probably much more.
Best wishes as you embark on an exciting journey.
Check out our Log Homes, Log Cabins, Luxury Log Homes, new log floor plans, client photo galleries, new articles, and videos at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Thermal Mass Benefits of Log Homes
The nation's Model Energy Code finally recognizes the energy-conservation benefits of thermal mass. After 13 years, the LHC's claim a log wall's thermal mass makes it as energy efficient as a well-insulated frame wall has been acknowledged. The situation could be cause for adopting an "I told you so" attitude, but that won't happen. "The Log Homes Council (LHC) doesn't feel smug, it just feels vindicated," says Barbara Martin, LHC's executive director.
The situation in question is the fact the nation's Model Energy Code finally recognizes the energy-conservation benefits of thermal mass. This is a victory for the LHC. After 13 years, its claim a log wall's thermal mass makes it as energy efficient as a well-insulated frame wall has been acknowledged. Achieving this acceptance has been a major goal for the LHC, a part of the Building Systems Councils of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB).
While the claim is true, it wasn't officially acknowledged, in part because thermal mass is difficult to quantify. Log home owners had the home heating bills to prove it was true, but Department of Energy and code officials needed more than empirical evidence. So, over the past 13 years, the LHC has gathered scientific statistics from independent research projects to substantiate its assertion.
Now that it has succeeded, Dave Carter, LHC energy committee chairman, says "This makes life easier for log home producers. We no longer have to fight energy codes based on R-values. It also helps log home owners. They don't have to invest in additional building materials to meet codes that do not improve the livability of their homes."
R-value measures a material's resistance to the transfer of heat from one side to another. Logs have a relatively low resistance to heat transfer. In fact, they actually absorb and store heat in their cellular structure. This put logs at a serious disadvantage in the cold winter states. It forced producers to overbuild their homes, especially their floor, window and roof systems, to meet total R-value requirements. "This drove up construction costs without any measurable benefit to our buyers," says Carter.
R-values have been at the heart of the debate all along. When the energy crisis struck in the 1970's, the state and federal governments quickly developed new energy standards for residential construction. To assure compliance, officials needed a way to measure the energy performance of all residential building materials. Since the situation was a crisis, and the R-value methodology existed, it became the standard.
Thermal mass is a material's capacity to absorb, store and slowly release heat over time. Logs do this well. The LHC set out to prove two things. First, logs have thermal mass because of their cellular structure, bulk and thickness. Second, this thermal m ass provides significant energy-saving benefits because it releases heat back into the house when temperatures drop.
Early studies proved thermal mass properties significantly reduce heating and cooling loads in moderate climates. The National Institute of Standards conducted the most important of these studies for HUD in 1981-82. However, energy experts continued to question the value of thermal mass during the winter months in northern climates. They doubted its benefit when heat is needed constantly and thermostat settings are opposite outdoor temperature.
Two recent studies, both conducted in cold climate states, answer this question to the log home industry's benefit. In 1990, an independent testing agency, Advanced Certified Thermography, conducted a study for the Energy Division of the Minnesota Department of Public Service. It focused on heat loss through air leakage, assumed to be a problem with log walls because of their many joints. The study found the industry has substantially reduced air infiltration rates in the past 15 years. It credited this reduction to improve joint construction and the use of expanded foam sealants and gaskets on all joints and corner intersections. Leakage in the 23 test homes occurred where it in the same places it does in frame houses: at the peak of the cathedral ceilings, around window and door frames and along the tops of walls. The study concludes air leakage in well-built, modern log homes is not due to their log walls.
NAHB's Research Center conducted the second study for the LHC in 1991. It showed the thermal mass of log walls does significantly reduce energy use for heating in cold climates. It based its conclusion on a comparison of the actual energy use of eight log homes to the actual energy uses of eight well-insulated foam houses during one winter. The number of houses were evenly divided between upstate New York and Montana. The study also compared the homes actual energy use to their predicted energy consumption. The results led to the conclusion that log homes were as energy efficient as the frame houses.
"What is significant here is the log walls' average R-values was 44 percent lower than the frame walls' average R-value." says Carter. "Clearly, we must conclude the thermal mass performance of log walls is an advantage to log home owners."
The LHC works to improve industry standards, increase awareness of log construction as a method for building attractive homes and overcome obstacles to log home ownership.
Check out our Log Homes, Log Cabins, Luxury Log Homes, new log floor plans, client photo galleries, new articles, and videos at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/
Friday, April 23, 2010
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
The Rivanna Gravitas Series plan is a 5604 SF, 6 bedroom, 4 bath home with a offset 3 car garage set into the mountainside. This plan features an all season porch, complete with a cozy fireplace and two balconies. A private owners suite occupies the top floor, with an open loft looking down over the spacious gathering room and a covered porch.
Check out our Avalon Log Homes – The Rivanna Luxury Log Home Plan at
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Check out our Avalon Log Homes – The Escalante Luxury Log Home Plan at
Combining spaciousness with elegance, The Escalante Gravitas Series plan is a popular open design masterpiece that speaks of sophisticated living. This plan Features a 4 Bdrm, 4.5 Baths, Three levels & 2 car garage. The dramatic covered entry is framed by glass sidelights. The first floor features a popular open floor plan with a gathering room with lots of glass for great views and a stunning fireplace. The gourmet kitchen features a wonderful layout perfect for large-scale entertainment or intimate family gatherings. The main level large master bedroom suite is situated for extra privacy. The lower level offers 2 bedrooms and a bath. From the sculptured architectural detailing to the soaring drama, The Escalante is for you to appreciate more with each passing year.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Monday, March 1, 2010
The Bear Creek Luxury Log Home
Check out our Log Home of the Month – The Bear Creek Luxury Log Home Plan at
This is a customized Seneca in our Gravitas Series. This plan features 5627 sf including 5+ bedrooms, 4.5 bath, formal dining room, double 2 car garages, drive-thru, 1.5 stories with larger daylight basement. From the soaring ceilings, elevated windows, formal dining room with walls of windows, and refined design of the commanding fireplace in the great room overlooking the very dramatic back view scene. The Bear Creek exudes a grad style. The unique window theme continues into the family room and adjoining kitchen and dining areas resulting in a log home bathed in warm glow of sunlight. The master suite offers everything you’ve always wanted. You’ll find this home loaded with all the latest design ideas.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Log Home of the Month – Fall Creek Luxury Log Home
The Fall Creek Luxury Log Home: Magnificent, Impressive, and Stunning. This Log Home features 4401sf including 3 Bdrm, 3.5 Baths 1.5 stories with garage. From the soaring ceilings, elevated windows, and refined design of the commanding fireplace in the great room overlooking the very dramatic back view scene. The Fall Creek exudes a grad style. Covered porches, dormers, and gabled roof add to this log homes charming appeal. The unique window theme continues into the family room and adjoining kitchen and dining areas resulting in a log home bathed in warm glow of sunlight. The master suite offers everything you have always wanted. You will find this home loaded with all the latest design ideas.
See this Fall Creek floor plan at http://www.avalonloghomes.com/floor-plans/fall-creek
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Join our Avalon Custom Log Homes Fan Page on Facebook. Lots of log home information at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Nampa-ID/Avalon-Custom-Log-Homes/151517604893